Taszkentczyk last more than two weeks spent in the magical Caucasus - one of the most interesting regions of our planet. The destination was, of course Nagorno-Karabakh, which is about my p ork thesis. Cool happened that at that time on South Caucasus is also chose my odnokursnicy - Anne and Cuba, and so we traveled a time:)
Check full of adventure. The first took place almost immediately after leaving the Polish. I went to Berlin where I had a flight to Yerevan, Riga. After celebrating luggage in, I expected to stand for the substitution aeroplanu. It appeared, however, that the mischief is seriously delayed and that there is no chance I'd had on a cruise Riga - Yerevan. In this situation I was offered accommodation in a hotel in Berlin and a flight the next day in Vienna. I am told also that in order to improve matters, will collect your luggage the next day by a customs office and I will give us a new flight. But the morning when I went to the airport went through my head thought: "There will be eggs, if my luggage, however, flew to Riga." It seemed unlikely, but when the guy from the office of my backpack was not in stock, you already knew that Murphy's law in force: P Lady of Lost & found'u only confirmed my fears, informing sure that luggage is not in Berlin, there is no information whether it is in Riga and I volunteered to lost & found upon arrival to Yerevan. Yes I did, WTP e told me that the luggage is probably arrive in Riga and the next flight. Unfortunately, the next flight was in three days. Well done ... foresaw this scenario before, I had already taken a decision - I'm going to Karabakh wallet and phone in your pocket and carry-on baggage, which had a camera, book, notebook, pen, and taken from an airplane blanket, which I had to serve as a sweatshirt, waterproof jacket and sleeping bag;)
with Anna and Cuba met in the Khor Virap
beautiful in the shadow of Ararat. view this confirmed me in the board with the idea one day that you will stand on the summit, where Noah's Ark moored;) Just days ago we got a quick stop to Stepanakert, the capital of Nagorno-Karabakh. We got off the main square at the monument to Stepan Szaumiana and suddenly I hear "Privet Lukas - Fuks we came up with Boris, whom I met during the stay last year. It is true that I wrote to him earlier that 
I come to Karabakh, but did not specify deadline and has not had time lived receive an email from him his phone number. Boria took us for coffee and cake to each other at the hut, and in the evening, when laid out up to the monument and Papik Tatika dokarmił us further. Nock spent at the memorial in a tent (the tent was small, but at least it was warm;)), and the next day went sightseeing. We went to the Museum National Museum and War Victims in CG. I especially recommend this second base, presenting a rich collection of weapons (including many muskets) and other equipment Armenian fedayeen: Beginning
the books of military uniforms by the ridges on the end. In the museum we met Mrs. Director who, after a brief conversation, handed me a book-a guide to the museum, containing a calendar of events of war, exposure, and scans of photos entries in the guestbook. And here the surprise: while reading the book present Cuba noted that found in the mine and Krzycha entry from last year's visit! Cool huh? :) After
afternoon we went to Szuszy, after visiting a mosque where the top, we were directed to the concert, which took place in the nearby Cultural Center, funded Armenian Diaspora representative, who later visited the Group. Anyway, it was not the only Armenian in JuEsEndEj 
, who was there. Apart from a small group of them were still " endżiosów , "or people from different NGOs and the Armenian from Montana, who came to learn the Armenian language on the spot. After the concert, invited us to a banquet, and arranged for us to stay! concert itself was interesting, with varied music and dancing:) The next day we visited the rest Szuszy at the head of the mosque and several lower blocks ruined (which is not very pleased Ania;) .) Unfortunately we were unable to visit the museum szuszyńskiego since Sept. 2 is a celebration of independence Karabakh and a day off - on this occasion we got to the next concert, this time dedicated to the 18th anniversary of the secession of Karabakh from Azerbaijan.
the evening przedostaliśmy Karmir Shuki,
where he will meet liśmy owco-bird: that is related Erza, who powierzchno COMPONENTS looked like a sheep, but was moving so rapidly, like a bird : P Nock spent with David - the fireman of the known previous year. His little son - rojber which after a little shyness remembered that wild fun y is his element:) It turned out that my letter with photos from last year came to them:) Karmir Shuk is the perfect base for Amarasu, where he is buried St. Gregory the Illuminator - that is, a man who made Christianity Ar menii. On the way back we played a match retinal ki with the local guys and we met a group of three persons bratanów , we have demonstrated a device called lbulatorem bu;)
In Next, we went to the famous, numbering over two thousand years, and plantains on the same day we went to Azoch, where there is a cave. It turns out that began to build the road conducting fodder obtained under the same cave in NTRY pledged to her in prison. I fear that soon you can no longer see it in the wild and all its authenticity zanikinie: /
The next day we went to Tug - this village BC ed the war it was inhabited by Armenians and Azerbaijan. There was a lot of mixed families and all lived in harmony. When began the first of the Armenian Stepankercie in early 1988, were followed by clashes in the Asker and the pogrom in Sumgait, the people in the Tug cerebral writhed that this case does not affect them - they been living together for many years and has no nationality meaning for them. Half a year later the village was divided, however, already artificially drawn boundary. And finally ended up on a regular battles between neighbors. Today, half of the homes in Tug lies in ruins. Sad picture, but even there, life returns to normal and sneaks through the back door now eye esność: Karabakh Telecom opened an office with one computer connected to the Internet, there is a telephone booth in the middle of the village, the school was renovated by the Diaspora, etc.
evening postopowaliśmy to Hadrutu to st amtąd move by the Fizuli, Agdam bogdanstef and the Mardakertu. The specific objective was just Agdam. With Hadrutu was hard for us to get out, because she reached us, a bunch of half-burned, half-drunk bratanów who wanted to force us to invite Caiaphas. I took on the negotiations, during when Cuba and Anne pretended that they do not speak Russian, and tried to catch the foot. The result of the negotiations was that brother gave a final peace and also have equipped us in a package cigaretów :)
with Hadrutu took the ladies przemiłymi prosecutor who carried away us to the junction of engaging , where the reflected way to bogdanstef and to the border with Iran on Araksie. There is a police pobawiliśmy equipment, and when dusk fell, we went to pitch a tent and work out a bottle tutovki , that is, the Armenian bimberku pędzonego morwach. Tasty vodka, especially taking into account the voltage mediocre! Ledwośmy morning they got up and here the route passes Conv ent karabachskich troops - a few dozen trucks loaded with soldiers - were doing a good impression. I started course record - which was one of the reasons for my nickname szpion ;) After one and a half minutes, however, spotted me a policeman and ordered to complete the hand movement record no. then ordered the control of the camera and film had to remove - as, however, has a menu in Polish and nieobytego Electronics policeman, it can be removed without removing;) Unfortunately, the policeman ordered the inspection of documents correctly noting that are on occupied territory. After a half-hour patrol of militiamen arrived, but who also did not quite know what to do with us ... In my ędzyczasie appeared Hadrutu mayor, who promised us the day before transport to Agdamu. Unfortunately did not intend to enter in the parade of militia and were on the spot. Only after some time the officer arrived, a man like Putin and smooth with a delicate verbal persuasion lay off vein us what and how and ordered to return to Hadrutu. Although it was clear that we can not oppose, it is still Putin spoke of his "polite suggestions. In Hadrucie even thanked us for using it. Not left us nothing but try to get to Agdamu from Stepanakert. After some time dostopowaliśmy to the capital and tried to snatch the Agdamu. He stopped, however, the Lord who suggested to us podwózkę Drmbonu, which was already in the plans , so that later. After the furze was immediately apparent that the guy is going to Drmbonu in connection with a factory there, and Base Metals . Not much thinking, I told her uciu read messages and found out we were going along with the deputy director BM! Speaking next was s brought you that Samvel saw "my" video on YT to singing coal miner with mines in Drmbonie. Please, please me how a famous director: P After odwiezieniu us over Sarsang proposed for the next day we tour the factory. Super option! Originally planned to break up under the oak
who okupowaliśmy last year with Krzych, but strong winds blew and moved further away from the edge of the tank. After j akiejś moment came three bratanów . Initially, only talking - one of them had more than a dozen years in times of war and as a teenager he fought Azerbejdżanami. He told on this occasion some harrowing stories, which I will not, however, quoted here. 
Then the guys were importing an additional portion of ETOH-a and delicious shashliks and proceeded to blast the music puszczanej of the car. There were different songs and all but well komponowały with cries of " forcement," Lop "and" Loba ": P next day began with visits to bratanów , who went to Madagiz. Then came another group of bratanów - this time karabachskich commandos. As we were already "liberated" with their hands, which is not easy in Karabakh, where the sweetening Assumption encountered every second person wants to entertain you (which is indeed the most wonderful in this country, but inside eba to reckon with the fact that all the plans could still hit the damn, option because of bratanami zabalowania always hangs in the air somewhere;)), we went straight to BM. We were shown around the whole works, unfortunately not mine. Besides, the plant itself is shrouded in a veil of mystery - Arsenic, our guide to the question if asked to take pictures, but to do. Besides did not say how many mines and points of ore has been under BM. The plant itself is responsible for finding minerals from the ore . At the beginning it is subjected to fragmentation and then mixed with water in special boilers centrifuged and filtered to separate the metal particles from nieprzedstawiającego greater value resort. At the end of the water is drained and the intermediate is produced, which is a big concentration of minerals suspended in the mass "mud" (well, in any event, something like that): P This goes longer intermediate mill, where the electrolysis process is refined. After visiting the museum it turned out that the "cruise package was a delicious lunch in the cafeteria business, where we spent a pleasant time for pogawędkach. We tried this yet sameg to get out of the Mardakertu, but it was confirmed last year's scenario: A motion was negligible: / We took so by reading books, which Ruda kwitowała his' N uuuuudnoooo! "In the evening we went to bed to Arsenal, who lived near the road. He has shown that arsenic and a friend build a Drmbonie restaurant and mini-hotel. Invited us to dinner and then spent several hours in long conversations about Karabakh, the war, Poland and bigosie;)
next day odpuściliśmy mardakercki the direction that it really was we needed a way to Agdamu and went back on tour Stepanakert - Askeran. Dostopowaliśmy to Askeranu - in total for the first time I visited the ruins of the fortress were and went to dinner. There we met a woman who lived with her husband a few years in Poland - in fact her husband was stationed as a soldier in the Bank of the Soviet Army. She had fond memories of our country and was very happy that we met. She invited us to his home for refreshments and for the night to the plot. Before he took advantage of its offer once again tried to get to Agdamu. Unfortunately, when we were standing at the exit of Askeranu police stopped us. Quite unpleasant Mr. Inspector took us to the police station. Then came a young officer, who wrote the protocol and reviewed our photos. Surprised me most that the guy knew that I Karabchu the second time (officially, I was actually the second time: P) - a sign that the security service running smoothly. It was evident that the peasant is " life," so we explained to him why we want to get into Agdamu that in fact it is not the first time and that none of us szpiony but wschodoznawcy. It was apparent that understood ł our goals and even wanted to help us, but his superiors did not consent to our visit to Agdamie. When we slowed down so we went back to the former resident of Beach. Her husband took us on a plot of land, which is, admittedly, a very picturesque - with a big pond in the middle, where you can safely swim and fish.
morning found that will not easily step down and will make a final attempt to get to Agdamu - minibus or taxi. Doczłapaliśmy to Askeranu and here ... surprise! As I have probably ever written - every year on holiday leaving the East was given to us to meet a head of state. Two posts earlier in Commu Lem ( in the post of Tajikistan ) that this year was nearly a spotkalibyśmy up to four presidents in Nureku. Well, back to Askeranu. We walk the main street and suddenly somehow the crowd swirls before us, a lot of police, the official party. It turns out that the school is opened for the money built the Diaspora. Suddenly he caught my eye registered one NEGO of parked cars, which could be seen on the flag of the Republic of Nagorno-Karabakh and the number 00 1 - at the moment it became clear that somewhere in the crowd must be Saakjan Bako! Unfortunately the police did not let us get any closer than: (In general, we were under their watchful eye, as if we were some sort of dangerous terrorists. They told us to remove the backpack i go back quite far from the car, although it we have wykłócić because ordinary citizens were allowed to stand closer to the Nagorno-Karabakh. It came to us a little wait for the president himself, but we saw it, but unfortunately for a short time. Also met 'our' Mr. officer, who was doing the day before the report. At the sight he smiled - perhaps feeling that you do not odpuściliśmy Agdamu so easily;)
After reaching the Stepanakert we went to the bus station to pokirjać taksiarzy to go to Agdamu. Who if taksiarz but always take the money and zwęszy man, even to the front line, as long as it only have to pay. The more that pr tears after a previous stay straight it was hard to free himself from taksiarzy who offered courses to Agdamu. But it turned out that the Karabakh authorities have to clamp down on this practice - probably a few licenses have been received - and nobody wanted to pick us up without special permission. So the option was less secure, but far cheaper: route d of bogdanstef Mardakertu or riding the Agdam. This option was less secure, as required to get out of minibuses on the beat and move Agdamu walking distance to downtown. There was therefore a real possibility of becoming OF THE spotted by some security officials. Fortunately, the route to bogdanstef, and goes so we drove closer to the center than to Mardakertu did not have to be kilkukilometrowego walk. We got off at the monument to the heroes of the Great Patriotic War - or so they looked like the ruins, although there were no elements of decoration, at least part of the dates 1941-1945, which might indicate that one hundred percent on the nature of the monument. But I think that we do not confuse a hunch;) Ruszyliśm s hurried toward the mosque. Mosque rather view
with its minaret had a striking impression on my comrades - which is probably not for anyone who knows what Agdam slightest surprise. Unfolded below us a view of what once was a big as the local conditions, because more than 30-thousand, according to witnesses - a thriving, full of oriental charm of the city. Today is a huge sea of \u200b\u200bruins, which captured the wildly growing vegetation. The landscape is dominated by two colors - gray debris, retreating under the pressure green (Christmas, but grafomańśtwo!: P) The city did not suffer as a result of regular warfare, but it has been methodical, planned wyburzeniom after he was captured by Armenians during the summer offensive of 1993. Previously, of course, left it all Azerbaijani citizens. Agdam was treated like a huge warehouse of building materials were used for the reconstruction of the ruined Azerbaijani artillery from Szuszy and n alotami bomb Stepanakert. With Agdamu exported windows, doors, interior, demolished houses to acquire bricks (it just does and today) and even dug up the streets to get the sewer pipe! Wot, recycling! This created the world's largest, next to the Pripyat, ghost town. She fell idea to get into the industrial area, located closer to the front line, but failed in the nation will and imagination - this would increase the chances of getting into the hands of public safety officers;) We went to so only on a "walk" in the center. We got the strange appearance of a building like a monastery or an old madrasah school - where the first two versions are practically impossible, this latter is probable. Penetrate buildings, however, proved to be impossible, for the sake of the fact that they are currently occupied! On the way back focused on the search for the famous mosaic ki on the wall of a house, which introduces the only colors for the "sea of \u200b\u200bruins" (according to the findings of a mosaic of Cuba before the war was on the building of the Museum of Bread!) And a statue of Prometheus. The two "attractions" I could find and only at the monument of my companions asked me a legitimate question - how do I know that these protruding from the pedestal legs belonged to Prometheus? The question in every respect valid, incontestable arguments on my part no, but since the version does not depart! It was a statue of Prometheus: P
After "passing" Agdamu decided we had nothing else but to withdraw from Karabakh and begin returning home. Another evening we were from Stepanakert - Goris and began stopować to Armenia. It was late, and dusk settled we were not doing it best. When collapsed almost full darkness, we decided to pitch a tent. The last pipe on burtniku and the last wave his hand to a passing Kamaz and ... we're going to Goris! Driver - Albert przemiłym was a man who chose our services ościć at his house in Goris, despite the fact that the whole family will be very uncomfortable because much to the ongoing renovation of the house. We got up at its disposal one double bed and his wife, Alberta - Melanie.
next day was marked by alloying to Yerevan and to find lost things: in my case it was a day from the airport baggage claim, in the case of Cuba, assembled from bratanów lost memory card with photos. Above all, for me it was the day my phone stolen. There was no miracle of technology komórczanej, but the machine served me well and I was bound to it, except that the memory was full of contacts, which I had on the Polish simkarcie (which, fortunately, was not in when the phone zajumania) . In this way, deprived of all my contacts Uzbek: / Blood sudden flood ...
dostopowaliśmy next day to the Georgian border, crossed it and went to Akhalkalaki. The city is important center for the Armenian minority in Georgia and stood in our way, of course, the Georgian Armenians, including their biggest importer - Samuel Khachaturian - grandson (and more great-nephew - if such a word exists), the famous composer Aram Khachaturian.
Samuel, is under the obvious influence of the Great ET OH-and , invited us to his studio art - deals with the reflection of images of the dead on the stones tombstones - and suggested kolacjo-libation. Attractions that we could not refuse! This is what has happened next is hard to explain - rather to say that Samuel and his aide and brother-taxi driver decided to drive us to Achałcyche and then to Batumi (do not know why but in a roundabout way?). 
finally landed in Khashuri in the hotel, which quickly proved to be a roadside public house. Spend the night in a brothel, in the admissions office - priceless: P BTW: Last year Krzychowi and my lady of uncertain konduicie tea set, this year the daughter of Corinth wykosztowały for dinner and the whole event! Fear fear what will happen in years: P Further, our route ran through Turkey, Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary and Slovakia. From Trabzon traveled only TIR-s, hitting the great drivers - first the Turks, Poles, then superb. I love talking on the CB: P:)
And so it was ...
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