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Uzbekistan, which returns home Taszkentczyk

Uzbekistan trzepandem greeted us with a sharp border. Check-in went very slowly, because each vehicle undergoes a detailed inspection. It consisted of everything from car wytaszczeniu subjected to X-ray and X-ray waves, looking for a drug dog's admissibility into the interior of the vehicle and a thorough review of the machine by border guards. In the case of Tajik citizens' control was extended by loosening the wheel and turn all the chairs to their X-ray (sic). Unfortunately for us at the border of a vehicle entered the Tajik numbers, which significantly lengthened the time of our expectations. When our time came, a little bit worried that the customs officers tell us to Disassemble the wheel and it will be mega-trzepando. Fortunately, such "pleasure" offered only Tadżykom. We ordered "only" amount to all the junk - and it was admitted that a lot of German shepherd and the interior of the car. Suspicions aroused, of course, tax collectors earth and cow manure, but they see that it contains nothing suspicious, and small containers in which we collected insects (except land aaa! Because we collected the insects and spiders). Finally, after almost an hour we went in the direction of the revision of Tashkent.

entry into the city itself aroused in me a lot of excitement, because wjeżdżaliśmy Fergona the street, whom I met after moving tram No. 13 and Bus No 93! Fergona the street, the episode of "lower" traversed hundreds of times from dorm - the city center. And indeed, after a while we were in a well-known to me the area: Risowyj bazaar, a prison for women, and of course visible from a distance my dorm! The first steps were directed to the Embassy of Kazakhstan, where the Falcons needed to form a transit visa at the Polish way. Then we went in search of cheap accommodation. Descended to us is that a lot of time. It turned out that the cheap lodging availability only in the famous Hadrze . Famous, he believed to the largest burrow in Tashkent. In fact, the rooms are not so bad, and the bathrooms leave a lot to be desired, how to use not to mention! Virtually "good morning" argued with on duty, which made the impression that work at the place in the framework of a sentence.

evening but we agreed to meet in Elvis with Alina, Olga, Julia, and Zamir. It was great to revisit favorite bar in Tashkent. Unfortunately, my companions because of fatigue or need for appear at 4 am in the queue for the Kazakh embassy did not wished to continue to accompany me balowaniu, Taszkentczyk consequently, lead to the airport after returning home now Radzimów, had to go alone at night voyages further:) I joined Zamiry Alina and that already played ellipse, and there sat out practice for the 4 am:)



next day was hard to pick up something, but somehow I gave to 12 the board;) In the first place we went to my framed Magisterka and then the varsity, where I presented the work. Then, we went to Alina and for a short visit to Tashkent: Madrasah Kulkedasz , a mosque on Friday, the National Museum. In the meantime, the small sample of hits sent to the Polish soil - as it turned out that the package arrived! Since

slowly approached the evening we decided to eat - the best place seemed to be a Russian restaurant Jołki-Mallets . Podjeżdżając the place we got straight into the hands GAIsznika , a policeman drogówki. This przyczepił to our darkened windows to the rear furki. It seemed strange, because after we crossed the road to Tashkent, several police posts and passed a number of militiamen in the capital, and nobody paid attention to us that something is wrong with our car. We started to explain to him that we are leaving virtually from Uzbekistan (which was not true) and why we punish. He had, however, download a film, which no detergent was not possible. Moreover, said that the machine will be "arrested" and taken to the "s ztrafplościadkę ." There, after downloading the films we regulate and mandate of the bill for towing and a police car. We were sure that the guy wants to force a bribe, so we suggested that "the mandate of pay on the spot." He with a smile on his face said that he could not charge such high credentials. We tried again using a magic spell, which usually expresses Page forcing a bribe: "We will give szto diełać? . " The answer was shocking: "be silent and wait, the car goes to the parking lot! The policeman took out his notebook and began to prepare transfer protocol Tranzitozwierza . He called for that purpose, even an accidental passer-by as a witness. We began to ask him pointblank zlitowanie explaining that what he and our problems - the guy said with a disarming smile on his face: "you have a problem, I got the result"! In this situation, there remained nothing but reach for the phone and call the consulate. Unfortunately, my phone was empty, so I walked with him and the charger to the restaurant and asked about connecting to the network. Przedzwoniłem to the consulate and presented the case. As we were informed probably such a provision, which prohibit darkening window does not exist. In addition, advised us to play with GAIsznikiem "spicy" request indicate the number of official business name. Encouraged back into place and I am seeking to show me the rule, which refers to the policeman. He with a smile on his face and removed the code points to any of the articles. Beaten with pantałyku contends that the Code is in Uzbek and do not understand a word. He proposes to stop so a passer, which I can choose myself and asking for a translation of the article. So too do. The truth is brutal: a passer-by Echoed police officer. When GAIsznik away for a while for anyone to stop, the driver accidentally explains, what we had and ask what this policeman could want. The driver admitted that the situation is strange, but once again do no harm to propose an addition to salary. When the policeman comes back to grab a last resort, and ask him to give an official number, name and the names and declare that we will spend not a car without talking to his chief. The policeman says that there is no problem and asked to whom I telephoned, when I went to a restaurant. Do not confess. GAIsznik leaves to one side and the time calling me to himself. The constant smile on his face gives me the documents of the car and driving away, and Cuba. Strange all this, but I think the guy realized that he contacted the consulate and, if the machine may be prohibited would have to print a lot of additional reports, so he lost interest. Of course, as always, the funniest thing is the justification for this absurd provision on the prohibition of darkening glass: But inside the car could be terrorists! And what if the car has a built-Pake? There, the terrorists can no longer be? BTW I wonder what would have invented, if our car was just a black window and not just a sticker? They asked to replace the windows? : P

After this adventure, delicious food in the Jołki-sticks tasted even more;) After saturation of hunger, when we left the restaurant already dusk fell. We left in the direction of Samarkand. We were aware that the Soviet era to Samarkand highway passes over a distance of 20 km by the Kazakh Soviet Socialist Republic, now independent Kazakhstan, so that we knew that we must bounce at some point in the Gulistan. But riding in the dark proved to be treacherous, and after some time arrived at the station milicyjnego, where the gentlemen told us that there is already a border with Kazakhstan and then proceed without a visa can not be. Get back on the road longer we did not want, the more that it was too late. We asked the policemen, who were very nice, if we can pitch a tent in their post. They agreed and even gave us tea.

next day we woke up in the morning, and took a bath at a police station posililiśmy and continued our journey to Samarkand. We arrived after several hours of driving. In the first row, we went to visit observatory Ulug-backs. Admission was by far too expensive - and I therefore decided not to visit the shrine of that during my previous visit to Samarkand. The very little has been preserved observatory and nearby the museum is more than modest. Another attraction was the mausoleums Timurydów Shah-i-Zinda . (No more writes here about the same monuments, have done this because in an earlier post April ). There he joined us Elbek, Rem, and their colleague from Petersburg. Catalonia in the parking lot we met participating in the event Mongol Rally . Know them, among other things went in that the Catalans scratched letter E with their registration numbers. Mongol Rally This event consists of driving a car from Europe to Mongolia and podarowaniu local car. Hundreds participated in the action teams - we do over the next few days we met on our route at least twenty cars marked as participating in the Mongol Rally . Then we went to the bazaar and the mosque and the mausoleum of Bibi-Chanum . Another attraction was the Registan monuments and mausoleum Gur-i-Amir , where complex include remains of Tamerlane. After sightseeing, we went to the entire group for a beer at a pub, where he joined us Zafar. Then we went to the lake, where we spend the night. Unfortunately, the police stopped us on the post and we are told, mikroautobusy such as our Tranzicior can not go on. Translation did not help that our car is registered as a passenger car. Anyway, a good case does not surprise me;) Zafar offered a different place so the river to which way he knew only his cousin. place was dismissed by some to Samarkand 30 km and, unfortunately, turned out to be much worse than the promised swimming pool. It's hard, somehow reconciled with this fact, and we gave up the pleasures of a typical evening for the nature of such circumstances. After some time, Jasper began Alina prove that all the monuments built by the Poles of Vilnius and the Vilnius is a Polish city. The conclusion of this whole conversation was that the Polish cities are also in Berlin, London, Vienna and Prague! : P

The next day we went to Bukhara. slept almost the entire route, so I do not remember too much except that at the beginning Cuba and conducted approximately every ten miles we were stopped by the police for exceeding the speed, which we unfortunately trzepało his pockets and took up valuable time. Already upset that Anne has ordered a change behind the wheel, and since then there has got no mandate and we stopped only at the fixed stations and even Annette exceeded the speed, and so we got away zawszee;)

Bukhara has proved to be for me the most beautiful Uzbek historic city. Landmarks are not really so "odpicowane", and therefore alienated from the surrounding architecture, as in Samarkand. However, are deployed mostly in the old town, which is still inhabited by ordinary people. gives a climate of greater authenticity of the place - just like in Chiwie, except that where the entire historic area is isolated from the rest of the city defensive wall. Meanwhile, in Bukhara, a city creates a kind of an organism in which monuments smoothly pass into more modern architecture and the neighborhood are not zapaskudzone concrete monsters, such as the Registan samarkandzki . In Bukhara, first visited the Ark - palace of the Emir, who, however, in most is covered with ruins, was not rebuilt after the attack because the Red Army in 1920. Within the palace there are several small museums. Opposite the main entrance was built in 1927 a water tower. The construction is 33 meters and is an excellent vantage point, if you just trust the builder and its restorers;)

Next, we went to the center of the square Lyabi Haouz and visited the monuments located in the neighborhood and we went for a meal. Alina, counting on the fact that it is approaching its last weekend during their stay in Uzbekistan and that God deigns to a know when you are in Uzbekistan, and again, that we may have trouble reaching the Aral Sea, decided to go back to Tashkent by train. She bought her ticket and the odprowadziliśmy minibus. And we decided to visit a synagogue, after which we guided the local rabbi (in total I do not know whether he was a rabbi, but the version that was, however, the more I like it: P), telling the story of the Jews bucharskich. Then we went further into the mosque Kalon, thereby ending the tour of Bukhara.

vulcanizer After visiting, we went in the direction of Urgenczu. We decided that in the first place we will go over the Aral Sea is actually a place that was once a lake, or to Mojnaku, but left the archives on the way back. To this end, we had to ride at least until 12 o'clock at night. Holidays spent in the desert, or the circumstances in beautiful nature:)

pocisnęliśmy next day until the very Mojnaku. And here an important remark: the Nukus no longer nowhere on gas stations, so the need for fuel to take care earlier. We have not done so and we got Mojnaku on fumes, hoping that something will be to settle on the spot. The only gas station pumps, however, was empty. In this seemingly dramatic situation, after several unsuccessful attempts to settle such as gasoline the bus driver, but we managed to do great. The local boy took us to a state farm, indeed kolkhoz - did not ask about the ownership relations prevailing there;) - where the other guy he poured us some magic fluid to move the tractors and combine: P Having satisfied hunger Tranzitozwierza could go to the graveyard of ships ...



This term defines a symbolic place, a collection of rusty old boats Aral fleet. Boats lie on the former lake bed, which today is only desert. Watchman who guards the junkyard Mojnaku told the story. I exactly remember the days when the city from all sides was surrounded by the waters of the lake. Even though it is not difficult to imagine seeing the high cliffs, which was once the edge of the tank. Told how built hotels and restaurants, after which there is no trace today, as he commuted to the place of his work, and deal with what most people Mojnaku - work on board fishing vessels and fish processing. He told the shore of the lake in the 60s began to recede, to the late 70s no longer be visible at all from the town and like the early 80s given peace of mind any attempt to dig canals for the boats that could still emerge from Mojnaku the full waters of the lake, away then already a few dozen kilometers. Mojnak Today there are over 150 km from the shore and the village of themselves mired in apathy, caused by economic collapse. Rozpytaliśmy up the possibility of reaching the lake today - the idea of \u200b\u200bcountry in order Tranziciorem "to Krech," the bank would in fact rather flippant:) And perhaps fatal for the sake of any movable pens ... How did we get told the lake is possible, but only local who knows the way and has a good truck. Anyway, we were able to swim in the Aral Sea, "and actually, in such a small roadside pond-bajorku, where we had to share the grazing herd of cattle next : P

Satisfied with Visit to scene straight from Fallout'u , we went back with the intention of staging a long Chiwie. Along the way, we met no small attraction: the Nukus we saw standing in the middle of the desert plane! Would not be ourselves if we did not try to come closer. Fortunately, it turned out that it is expensive, and with her sign: "No admission for unauthorized." So we issued the mandate and drove away, the same plane. In addition to the aircraft stood empty buildings and train cars were visible in the distance further buildings and tents. We understood that we got into a kind of special forces training ground. Quick foty and backward! Before

Urgench history repeated itself with fuel. After driving 60km on reserve, in the end we came to a petrol station. Unfortunately, it was only under construction, but they called foremen relief and after a while the Izu rode " benzyniarz " and proposed business. Agreed price and at the time of the next Izu , this time car conveyance, drove two peasant kanistrami! That's how it works in Uzbekistan:)

crossed the pontoon bridge on the Amu-Darya and arrived to Khiva, where he spent a good few hours, admiring the buildings Itczan Kala. At night we went in the direction of Tashkent. We chose, however inadvertently road, which was in poor condition and to full Witch - usually a tractor, but ZiŁów , with their headlights off ... Amu-Daria crossed on an interesting road-rail bridge, where traffic is stopped for the time its a train journey.

When dusk began to fall our eyes appeared a strange glow on the horizon. Initially we thought low that it can be suspended moon. After a few minutes but it turned out that it must be a great fire, as the moon appeared next to the glow. On one of the stations we asked a policeman what a glow on the horizon - he replied that it burns the Turkmen gas pipeline is located some 15 kilometers from where we were. But it turned out that the policeman did not have the best information. After several more minutes of driving - glow appeared in front of our vehicle - so there was already very possible that there is it is in the territory of Turkmenistan, as we drove all the time parallel to the border of that country. After crossing the next road section there was no doubt that we are dealing with fire, because the glow clearly began to flash. We had a nice ride even tens of kilometers to reach the fire, which proved to be deployed right on our way. The fire was so powerful that we saw him from a distance of almost 100 miles! Burning natural gas, of course, spending a fantastic, rumbling sound. We were unable to determine whether it was a pipeline fire or a natural gas leak, which was set on fire. stemmed from the fact that the fire took place in a small basin, which edge approach was not possible. Nay, even closer to a distance of 50 meters was difficult due to the gusts of hot air. Drove about 20 miles from the fire and went to sleep in the desert rozświetlanej gas fire!



Another day practically all spent in travel, because we wanted to get out as quickly as possible to Tashkent. Were under the illusion that maybe we can still use the last day for selling a car. The only attraction on the way militias were controls, and a delicious dinner. Antyatrakcjami the heat prevailing in the interior of the car, where he recorded 60 ° C under the windshield, and 40 ° C in the most ventilated area, and the explosion of a tire that did not survive to old age and heat. Until we arrived at about 22nd Tashkent There Hadra had no seats, so they sent us to another shrine. There, however, it turned out that we can not check in because we had no registrations. It turns out that in Uzbekistan should be recorded every three days and after this deadline, no hotel has no right to take the man until he has paid a mandate! However, the guy with the front desk was nice enough that it allowed us to break down their tents on the back of the hotel and park your car in the parking spaces. Up to 3 o'clock in the morning pucowaliśmy our Transit , whereas the planned visit to the car market, the next day. Unfortunately the next day was Monday, and the stock market on Monday did not work: / but decided to try it. We gave in addition to cleaning the car at the car wash, and we went to avtorynok . There, however, all our hopes were dashed. For the sake of the lack of customs matters governed by no one wanted to buy a car. We tried to talk to yet, " marszrutkowcami ," but also out of general interest there was no desire to buy from them. Then we went to the girls to live in order to comprehend. Of course it took a little time. At night we had a plan to go to a restaurant TV tower - is a promise from the beginning of my stay in Tashkent, from January, but still somehow I failed this time also failed ... Restaurant on Monday does not work: (Let's hope that what is delayed, it is not lost . For dinner we went finally to Sim-Sim - also very cool bars. Then we went to the park, where he joined the Ibrahim and Rem. Around 1 am we had to move to the airport, from where odlatywaliśmy from Christopher to Riga .

Thus ended our escapade to Central Asia ... The rest, however, the strength of memories:)

What The Difference Between Tapout Mps

Tajikistan - Where up to 93% of the country!

country is on my mind for a long time. I first heard about him on the occasion of watching a movie in years szczeniackich Fri " Spies like us " with Chevy Chase and Danny Aykroyd. The movie was a scene showing a column of Soviet troops, and accompanied by commentary by the characters that the column was intended to Dushanbe. national bronze but there shown was not at all Tajik - better suited to the mountains wschodniosyberyjskie FOR IN latniej. Since that time, my knowledge of Tajikistan increased and with it direct proportion (and perhaps it was a gain on a logarithmic scale;)) the desire to visit this country. A special attraction was the Pamir Highway , a path of Osh in Kyrgyzstan to Chorogu in this dżykistanie led by the Pamir mountains. The route was established in the years 1931-1934 initially as szutrówka that in the 70s gain the asphalt mat. Add to this border region with Afghanistan, romantic stories about the nineteenth-century Anglo-Russian rivalry for this region of the world and ethnic separateness of Tajikistan against the other Central Asian former Soviet republics. Sufficient argument for a visit to Tajikistan should indeed be the finding that 93% of the country covered by mountains! ;)



Although the name of the Pamir Highway can conclude that we are dealing with a highway or at least the international road with heavy traffic, let us not confuse the evening! Traffic on the route is not that great and you can take a chance stwier device that 50% encountered on the route for vehicles (including bicycles) has as its tourist-poróżników controls. We have only one day met two teams of cyclists (Germany and France), a team of French travelers Citroënami old (not that they were sorry for these cars on the bumpy road;)) and a team of British motorcycles enduro and Defenderze .

After the Soviet collapse highway pamirska ceased to be a greater economic significance. Kyrgyzstan, handlującemu much more intensively with China than not having much to offer its southern neighbor is not dependent on maintaining this section of road outside of Osh to Sary Tash, where the road off to the border with HL Irkeshtam L on the pass. Hence the route from Sary Tash to the limit in Bor Dobo is maintained by the government reportedly ad Tajik. The claim is probably too big a word - it would be better to say that the route in general is not maintained by anyone.
Tajik border guards
sentry will find loves to about 20 km from the Kyrgyz police station and the two are separated Kyzyl-Art Pass (4282m altitude). Are moving to Tajikistan by the Pamir Highway remember to hold the passport of permitu BAR, namely Upper Badachszański Autonomous Region, the territory inhabited by people of Tajikistan pamirską, distinctive language and faith - most of them are Ismaili. Crossing the border car em a few formalities to be completed - except dard state for passport control and customs clearance goes up in transport services and control in " narkotrafik policies", ie the police involved in the fight against drug smuggling. Our visas plate in their "booth" ended in a quite exceptional. Policemen after routine questions zai nteresowani what we are offered tea and snacks made with candy and bread with butter . After further them dnak conversation "backroom" and offered something extra. They took us to the next and kanciapy asked whether we wanted the game. Even our heads did not come to pray, because I have suffered from hunger. You guys reported that they hunted in goat. beast's head rested in a bag next to it. When we removed the animal's head, Jasper - The chief naturalist groups, made the sign of the animal and said that most likely prepare a meal from the Marco Polo sheep - a species included on the World Red Book . But it was too late to stop the machine cookbook ...

Tajikistan greeted us with a beautiful my views, and a surprisingly good way. Devil is not so terrible as he is painted! It turned out that Pamir Highway is mostly covered with asphalt and even not so bad quality. Of course there are sections of gravel and sometimes the road is dotted by mountain streams - a welcome one already on admission. Generally, however, is going up rapidly, and beautiful natural circumstances. When p ewnym time on the right side there is a picturesque, sizable, the highest lake in the Pamir mountains of Kara-Kul. The dominant color is yellow and gray sand and surrounding rocks and deep szafiro you water the color of the lake. Bard zo tasty combination! Another attraction on the route to pass Ak-Baital, the highest in the entire route, measuring 4,655 meters above sea level. They are already the altitude at which the disease can be acquired by altitude. In our group, in a most peculiar height bore Magda, who initially for each crossing barrier 3500 reacted hilarity, part lived cer ontrolowanym assault of laughter:) Then, unfortunately, came the more typical symptoms such as headache and general of TEXTILE-being. And our Transit beautifully handled the heights, however, increasing the fuel burning and smoky, like a locomotive.

In the evening we arrived to Murgabu, where we wanted to do Registrations - both in OWIRze , as well as the local KGB . But we got in Sunday gels and all offices were closed. But we have obtained information that the registration for the KGB is no longer required wb rew what they write in LP'07. We made a picture so the monument to Lenin, najedliśmy in a small diner, and we went in search saljarki . As I said, gas stations in the traditional word interest in this area will not find. We must therefore go from house to house and ask, with whom you can buy fuel. Immediately zn ajduje is a Joseph ready to do business. J headache est, however, is that because of the loneliness you feel Pamir fuel supply from a distance and the cost is the bar very high ! For diesel we paid as much as in Poland, which is two times more expensive than normal in this region of the world! Murgab remember one however mainly for another reason. Out of town have to cross the first a police station (the first, because more of these stations are dozens!). At the stations does the registration of the vehicle and passengers, which usually consumes little time u, but it is also always a chance for an interesting plant collusion, each cigarette tea and snacks and even food! In Murgabie all it was, but we got the mandate gratisie! It turned out that Tajikistan can not have it in your car dim for nianych windows. Uzasadn of property belonging to this provision is that the windows go dark only terrorists behind the curtains who shoot people! Initially, Mr. policeman ordered us to remove the darkening , what turned out to be impossible, because the film stuck for good. In this case, imposed on us sztraf ! He showed an official rank order, which showed he can m impose a mandate within Somoni 125-200. We negotiated, not to punish our mandate at all, explaining that we were tourists, guests in their country, who already explained in a few days and strive are dim we needed for comfort. The policeman was adamant, but he decided to consult with his chief . This, however, had a heart of stone and said: 200 som they, without discussion. We broke down terribly, because 200 Somoni is the sum of quite a few! We decided to negotiate further. I asked for the phone to the head, hoping that I can somehow convince him to lower the mandate. Initially, we could not at all to him get through, but was not a big prob lem - ajranem treated the policeman, bread, mutton:) Head allegedly was in the suck and therefore n e answer. Finally after half an hour pressed green phone and I started AC legally obligated to its p rośby calling for expressions of grace. Tovarisch major But at some point to end cerned. It seemed that the matter is buried, but after a while he rang and ordered get fined 125 Somoni. Good and that! Although the mood for the evening waned a bit for us, but only until such time as the celebrant of the Great Big Etoh he did not treat him with the cheap: beer, wine and champagne. To fully "happiness" no owało only some cheap vodka above;)

very next day we wanted to see a chi nski tomb Gumbaz near the village of Bash. On the way to the village we met a local Kirghiz, who decided to be our guide. After reaching the village, it turned out that we are a few sites, especially the passage through the narrow bridge, which is more pedestrian footbridge and donkeys and not for Transitów ... Luckily, slowly, coordinating each movement succeeded in driving off a bridge does not zlecieć;) Unfortunately, after several minutes of the journey winning streak ended and Transit zarył in muddy blocku. Unfortunately, the mud was so serious that, after several fruitless attempts to take the, the car settled back near the bridge and began to grind mud vain. Initially, we tried to reinforce the ground under the wheel and build a kind of pavement of stone, after which the car could roll. But when we realized that sitting on the bridge are ACKGROUND take other measures. Our situation has raised interest in the village and after a while przyejchał GAZ-66 someone who could haul up from the mud. The driver, however, he did not want to enter into the mud, and there was no other option, because our lobby was relatively short and left us in poverty. In this situation, could do nothing as painfully alternately lift the car float and underlay under the stones. In this way the car slowly started to wander up. When the rear axle got out above the plane of the earth, "wybrukowaliśmy" again for the right wheel path. All present were zaprzęgnięcido pulling or pushing the machine and after a while Transit stood on solid ground. However, it was necessary to exchange the wheel, because in the meantime ukruszył valve. After this adventure we went on a tour of the tomb and then yet another. Our guide then took us to his brother on ajran and tea.

same day we pulled the Pamir Hi ghway the route to Ishkashim, ie in the famous valley wachańską. On this occasion, once the other gi in life were given to me to see Afghanistan. I hope that the adage 'third time lucky "will be fulfilled, and the next case of standing on my foot Afghan territory! If you are not yet tr ace was beautiful, it is the description ANIE this road lacks words. The route is dotted just above the border regions Pandż the river, sometimes on the water, sometimes on steep slopes of the mountains some dozen meters above the turbulent water surface. For several kilometers down to the village of Langar do not find hardly any human settlements and the road winds up the mountainside to st arczając amazing views! From Langaru route completely changes its character. One village smoothly passes into another and this in the next. And so, practically until Ishka shim. The route is rich in attractions, every few kilometers there is a fort or fortress and besides, hot springs, a Buddhist stupa, etc. But one by one;)

's first tour was a fortress RATM - situated on a high ska rpie, on a bend of the river Pandż. The fortress was not much, but the view, which provides is amazing. Especially when a man approaches the very edge of the cliff and under it, some 100 feet below, it will be just a river! After visiting her, we went on an exploration accommodation. As soon it got dark, we decided to break the bank d Pandżu on a piece of flat land. We pitched the tent and proceeded to boil water for dinner, when suddenly we heard some provocation in Tajik, sk ierowane clearly to us. Since none of us understands the Tajik language, took the cheers as the aczepki from local inhabitant this and I even something in Polish I cried. Not a minute had passed suddenly enters into our camp, reeling in nogac h, with thy bloody governments and Kalashnikov the guy grabs in uniform. Asks the rossiysk in who we are? At this time, it appears that we are and surrounded by different parties coming to us even three soldiers. All of us rifles at the ready - they had bullets in the chambers! After a brief explanation that we are a tourist I ask myself ódcy dow, what happened to him in the face. Corresponds to a short 'it for you. " The girls quickly deal with a soldier at wearing gauze and hydrogen peroxide. We learn that the Tajik patrol saw the light of our flashlights on the banks of the river and thought that it was Afghan smugglers. this hunch cemented among soldiers that they took away our tents for wytaszczane boat to the shore or pontoon y guys turned out to be one very active in order, sat a to us and we have little talk, find out what life is like in Tajikistan, etc. Then the only commander gave the order to unload the guns. The greatest curiosity was at the end, when Jasper asked if we could take a picture with them. Zapozowali guys happy. Cheerful Krzyszt of asked, and praise him for it, or we can take a picture with their kałachami in naszy hand ch ch. And so, gained the first picture in my life, "the chief ": P

The next day we went to twi erdzy Abrashim Qala, which boasts spectacular views across the valley Pandżu! We had the opportunity to visit a traditional pamirski house. Our next objective was the village of Vrang, famed for its Buddhist stupa. On the occasion of the local We guided the boy to the village - the largest atra ction was powered by water from rivers and mill, equipped with an automatic supply jnik grains and in ny without electricity! :) Next, we visited the village Yamg in which above is the house-museum nineteenth-century suf ickiego mystic, astronomer, music Wakhaniego Mubarak Kadam. There you can see a typical house with a very sympathetic badachszański luksferami in the roof and a rich collection of musical instruments such as an interesting "guitar"! Another attraction day spa was Bibi Fatima with hot water. Initially, the hot water we terrified, because ystarczająco hot it was outside, but swim was very enjoyable. Same bath is decorated in a clever way and the best thing is a small rocky bay, into which you enter, then immersed in it rkować, extracting stones from the bottom, say magic spell in Arabic and then, do not ruin iac stones, to get out without help from the bay - are perform all these Waru nków guarantees wealth and fertility of men to women! So I've been waiting for those millions dularów:) In addition to the sanatorium is located ę best preserved fortress in the valley - Yamchun the twelfth century. Completed the next day exploring the fort - Khakha of the third century BC, the approach to which once again manifested itself krzysztofowy element of self-destruction - Great celebrant climbed after several dozen in fact, not too easy wall without protection! Fortunately, he succeeded, though he says that at some point had the urge to cry your help;)



The next day we drove in the end I s hkashim, which made the necessary purchases and repairs of car tires at akże definitively clarified the issue registrations in OWIRze - it turns out that it is not Poles need it now! Then we headed toward Chorogu, the capital of Upper Badachszanu. Leaving the town you pass next to the bridge, which operates the border crossing with Afghanistan . On the rock, on the other s Pandżu throne was laid with white stone inscription "Welcome to Afghanistan "

few kilometers Ishkashimem met us one of the strangest stories of the trip. Across the road stood Lexus and his passengers, young guys, they stopped us asking for help in pushing the car. The car was in fact the front wheels on the shoulder, but was located entirely in the plas zczyźnie road. Visitors told that the machine broke them up. So we helped bring a car onto the asphalt. If den of the boys went to Krzycha to thank him by shaking hands and slipped his hand "special cargo" which proved to be a tiny cube of hashish. Oddly, however, what we realized after a while - the guests immediately after the entrance to the car du, fired him and drove away! This whole situation is released we are brought you later slightly smelly and certainly not accidental, taking ac into account that the same Lexus passed at least twice in Ishkashimie - that is, twice in completely different places and at other times I noticed as we passed Lexus. M not a chance too many, there would be more Lexusów . The car stood out clearly against the background of cars that house inują in the region, leaving too many fields to guess what Paraje its owners, taking into account close proximity to Afghanistan.

about 30km per Ishkashimem is another spa, whose name, unfortunately, now forgotten, and supposedly that is the miraculous water, c a cure for the eye. Especially recommended to me - to immerse the head and open your eyes under water, but after DDAC the wonderful properties of water. After these baths, my eyesight is certainly not improved and the risk of bringing together the fungus grew:) Despite this, I recommend swimming in the sanatoria um! :) Much larger resort st them a bit further sanatorium located in Garam Chashma, that offers bathing in the hot "egg water") sludge from the bottom of the pool works well on hair follicles. Or so we have to wma blow after it all began to belabor this Błocki;)

In the evening we managed to reach the Chorogu. The city is doing a really good impression. Even though we stayed there only a moment, then all who liked, because no such a klimacik - beautifully situated, and probably thought too bad. Impressive with the local airport - no wonder that the times of the USSR Aeroflot pilots flying on the route Dushanbe-Chorog, as the only country in addition to salary received for the flights in a risky area!

Jasper That day also appointed its p he first climbing route, which he called "Sabo did not go that way!" :)

spent the night in small village near Rushanu. Residents turned out to be very hospitable, inviting us for tea skr omny refreshments, who really like a little more ucztę owocową :)



Kolejnego dnia dotarliśmy do miejscowości Qalakhum. Od tego czasu droga uległa dramatycznemu pogorszeniu, wzrosła również ilość posterunków policyjnych i wojskowych na trasie, które opóźniają podróż przez koniecz ność rejestrowania się za każdym razem. W Qalakhum spotkaliśmy też milicjantów-oszustów, którzy wmawiali nam, że krótsza droga do Duszanbe jest zamknięta z powodu zawalonego mostu i należy jechać objazdem przez Kulab. Mieli w tym swój interes, bowiem one of them wanted to go in the direction of Kulab and take it with us. Not us the numbers, Bruner! Guest mus ial to find other suckers ... From that moment we passed the whole day driving in the direction of Dushanbe, interrupted from time to time collect the ground and shooting situations sessions for which the background was mostly destroyed vehicle y armored and mine fields here and there - that is, generally remains of the civil war waged in the years 1992-1997. In the roadside village spent the night, which was varied nightlife police drug raid. Guys checked the passports and told us that we are on an important smuggling route. And this is news to you ...: P



On the next morning greeted us with the most severe ordeal of the river, which previously had. By the way flew quite seriously look giving river. Transit is not very high suspended, so there were concerns that the council is not a lady. The more that the bank has already smashed Lada Samara and her driver, who on p oprzedniego advice they gave and now begging everyone I meet " kamazowców " of towed to the nearest village. Fortunately, the Falcon has proved to be a sixth sense and felt all the underwater obstacles, conducting Tranzitozwierza to the other side nietkn iętego! The main attraction of the day was to be a firewall nurecka - that is the highest TV tower in the world - a whole has a height of 300 meters. Unfortunately we could not even get requests to Wed stomach hydroelectric power plant, or on top of the dam and all the men Rahmon, Medvedev, Karimov and Nazarbayev, who appointed himself near the summit. We were hoping that, although on this occasion will m data to meet / see prezyde ntów under the rules according to which for three years each year we managed to see a holiday visit any of the heads of states. Lucky we were very close when going from a diver to Dushanbe when transferring oil from the canister to Baku, we passed the presidential column for the tone. Unfortunately, This column was once set only for zmyłki - because the tinted windows could have been, however, dos rub that he ochody go empty: / I wish ...



In the evening we arrived to the capital country. The first thing, which it took was to send the Polish land. Unfortunately, repeated a ditty of Bishkek - the institute of geology without a license to export one of our ground shipping is not celebrated. Despite the late afternoon hours (and it was a Friday) we went to s institute, hoping that maybe someone will still work. We are lucky - he was very sympathetic professor who disarm but ajającą sincerity said that both angle geology is not the land (soil) and that far from cow manure. Same idea can be seen, however, pleased him, especially when he learned that the land does not meet the test, biologists and engineers but lawyers! He promised to help and appointed us to meet the next day not. In such circumstances, we decided to leave outside of Dushanbe, and specifically to Hissar. spent the night in a small "brick factory." Morning we visited the sights - the fort and the madrassa and pognaliśmy to meet with the professor to Dushanbe. According to his words, he had someone waiting for us in the Tajik Academy of Sciences, but after reaching the place, it turned out that nobody knows. But we have to take this opportunity to meet with Polish doctoral student at the academy on a contract. Samples have decided to fail to Tashkent. After visiting the museums of ancient and national headed north - the direction Chodżent.

The road is in the overhaul / bu struction, and many of its segments is in a sorry state. The route is also quite a few detours. But when it is picturesque as hell! Simply beautiful trail! And what will be after the renovation! Ulala!



That day we managed to reach the height of Ayni, so that the next move in the direction of Chodżentu. It was a mistake. But we could not know that after driving tens of kilometers, it appears that the Chinese road builders will close for the day, namely from 7 am to 7 pm. I would add only that in place of "lock" We arrived at 9 am: / Vision of ten hours of waiting seemed at first incredible, and not only us - the local people, who got into this trap as well. It seemed that the matter will be to settle some petty gratification of money, but the Chinese have remained steadfast. Safety Means a lot to say in them:) In this situation, there remained nothing else for us, how to relax: reading a book, sleeping, or finally giving up p iciu a beer, kurzeniu and r ozmowie met at the route Pole - Luke . When he finally let us move on, we did not have the joy. At the same time the road next to the border was great! We stopped for a short tour in Istarawszanie. Thanks to advise those who have already wylatywali next day to the country had really ersatz architectural Uzbekistan.

The border crossing at Oybek arrived late at night. We were able to celebrate the Tajik side, avoiding the payment of exit fees, which they told us at entry, as well as bribes, which he persistently demanded the policeman on the first goal. He immediately got to know too, what is this "mutual love" between Tadżykami and Uzbeks. The former warned us that the Uzbeks przetrzepią us at the border for all the times. The latter welcomed us, saying: "I have forsaken wjechaliście Asia and to Europe." I must admit that the Tajiks, however, have much more right:) But that's another story. Nock spent on so-called. "No man's land" because the Uzbeks to open the border until the morning.

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Kyrgyzastan, a soldier's note ... *

to Bishkek arrived late wi eczorem. Our first steps were directed to guesthousu where rozstawili Ania, Magda, Cuba and Radek. The first time was for us to see details of our Tranzitozwierza - zr T-Mobile the best impression, although there are voices that Transit not give advice in the Pamirs. But I do not like doom and treats all kinds of obstacles as a challenge and a pleasure, and besides, I've seen the movies and fotach, such as local roads śmigają Kamazy, Moskvich, Volga and Żiguli (ny) ;) In the meantime, however, we played at backyard gazebo, talking about our adventures of the time meeting and negotiating with the owners p rzybytku until dawn exchange Our Transit the Land-Rover . Unfortunately, the only effect of neg ocjacji were further detriment of our livers;)

Due to visa issues, and neither of Cuba, every few days we had to turn up in Bishkek, which prevented us from accidents the Kyrgyz interior;) However, the time was enough to make even a trip around the lake Issyk-Kul. The road to the lake is quite crowded and that for the sake of the fact that the lake is a popular holiday escapades in the direction of among Kyrgyz, but also Kazakhs and Russians. first night we went off the resort Cholpon-Ata. We have broken up right on the lakeside in a pretty nice scenery, but the pleasure of camping partially spoiled bunch of drunks we trap / burned Kirgiz, who at any price they wanted us to persuade the common smoking herbs, and generally turned back to us the proverbial guitar. There is, however, that every cloud a silver lining - you guys have with each horse and encouraged rides on it. We used of opportunity! Of course, they did a little trick and they let the horse gallop, while I sat on it:) Very nice experience for someone who has already ridden a horse only once and in a add on a little Mongolian pony: P In the end it turned that the Pole is generated in the saddle and the body itself, naturally begins to adapt to the movements of the animal by the characteristic rocking in the saddle (good, now nawlewałem se me what a great Jockey: P)

The next day we went east and our aim was Karakol and its surroundings, in particular, the Museum and Memorial Przewalski and former Soviet naval base and in the torpedo factory and Michajłowce Przewalsk Marina. While the entrance to the museum was not a the smallest problem - enough to pay the price haggling, of course, the legitimacy of the ticket WIUT :), is already exploring a more torpedowni driving school, whose masters did not have shown. But in a turn in the first row we went to the former transhipment in Michajłowce. Could only enter the porous fence, but was discouraged described in the authors' intention cającymi inscriptions like " Do not enter! 100% of the prison! " volleys, etc. Generally, laugh;) there enlisted in the local language of the janitor, what, where and how? found that the highest one in the world war naval base (sic - such as shall be determined in some sources) - 1608m above sea level - is still running and is under the control of Russian seamen! Therefore, enter on its site can not. So we asked how the case is the former production plant t orped in Michajłowce. It turned out that the establishment has not been and is still releasing torpedoes:) Department had to be guarded by the FSB. Niezrażeni but we went to the factory and decided to conduct a frontal assault;) with adzwoniliśmy to the base, and we said that we wanted to visit the factory and Soviet naval boats moored at the wharf. was called a batch, but this was not to be fooled, that we " miestnyje " and firmly persisted in her that the plant is an object of strategic significance and come to him impossible. He suggested, however, that the next day is willing to substitute a of the vessels (with an appropriate salary, of course) to undergo a course on Lake Issyk Kul. frontal view of the failure of the attack suggested getting an object from the enemy's enemy - namely, passage paid for at in the section of the beach to the base, which is not met with understanding on the part of my companions;) so we moved further toward Bishkek, closing loop around the Issyk Kul from the south. Overnight spent at the lake grillując disposable grills bought from a friend Rutkowski WCZ eśniej beef and Kyrgyz sipping wine brand " Czjornyje glaza ." Unfortunately the meat unless pałucziłos' not quite dopieczone, because the next day I had the guts twist, that little head!

attraction next morning, which we passed in the majority of n a ride to Bishkek was a salt lake Shor Col. Water salinity was high enough that you could easily lie down on the water surface and just enjoy a state of " levitation." Directions to the lake will not vein, however, entirely clear and a little chance we got there - so you'll need to be vigilant and ask locals! Also the access road itself is in a state miserable, and after rains may be to get to the place only 4WD. Well, the biggest hit: the lake is private, so for the opportunity to swim in it and even a few who only need to pay him!

After arriving to Bishkek, the Falcons went to the Russian embassy. After lodging the application decided to move to the mountains located near Bishkek, and specifically in Alamedin Canyon. We pitched camp and we thought that the next day to go upstream. Eventually, they decided to take this step only Radzim the Falcon. Jasper wanted to rest, but I still kept after grilling;) While the guys walked, we took the tanning, reading, and drying the tent (unfortunately our Marabou slightly stale: /). addition we took advantage of the invitation of local Russians, who came with their families for a picnic. When the men celebrated their wives and children to walk far, under the guise of preparation of the meal, took up the consumption of liquor and soft drugs : P inviting us to share in this niecnym launder money. Ch łopaki proved to be very nice and when you took longer to Bishkek, have left us their surplus products food, mess kit and two have already finished dishes!



awaited us the next day and the last recorded re ia already visit in Bishkek, associated with the receipt of visas by Ania and Cuba, as we used in addition to visits to museums Bishkek. Peculiar national museum turned out to people, by the fact that the two floors it has, the first is entirely devoted to Leniowi! You are brought you convince as the fate of the Leader of the Revolution inextricably intertwined, perhaps imperceptible in normal life, with the fate of a node of the Kyrgyz people! ;) also amazing atmosphere create frescoes on the ceilings of the museum. Hit is Teuton wielding a sword from blood ubroczony image of a swastika on the handle, the raging bull rushing przyobleczonym in a necklace of human skulls! And against him is dressed in white robes, a virgin (as I do not really know if a virgin - the more that is an allegory Matuszki, Matuszki Rassiji , but let it be: P), also with a sword in his hand. Ahhh poetry! The second f ajny fr ECN is Reagan in a cowboy disguise a ride on a rocket Pershing ! Another interesting "sight" is located as a memorial museum, but it's not about a monument to Vladimir Ilijcza, because they do not excite me anymore, as a few years ago, but a monument-the Order of Lenin, who received Kyrgyz S RR probably in the year 1956 for excellent results it has achieved in the economic field, and which are listed on the commemorative plaque. For example, you can sparkle harvest 321,466 quintals of wheat, 34,893 tonnes of beef, etc.: P (Unfortunately, I shoot with these numbers, because the picture somewhere monument wcięło: () But it was a masterpiece and a gem, which enough! Subsequently udaliśm y to the Museum - House of Michael Frunze, the Bolshevik general, who came to Bishkek (then Piszpeku) and after the October Revolution to the Communist conquest of Central Asia. In Kyrgyzstan, the status is still a hero. There is nothing to be surprised - if he was not of the Soviet Union, Kyrgyzstan is today would have been much less developed. In the end the Soviet Union and later Russia modernized countries of the region, hence the nostalgia for the old times is here greater than, for example in Armenia and Georgia, not to mention Europe's former republics!

important part of your stay in Bishkek was ysłanie the Polish samples collected along the way land and gówienek Krowica h. As co passed, an important theme of our trip was exegi monumentum . Namely, Jasper, as a naturalist by avocation, has been assisting the Department of Biology, Adam Mickiewicz University in collecting samples of soil, to examine for the presence of new species of mites . Researchers at the University accepted the offer with joy, and so armed with bags of strings on the whole Our than from gathered (and mostly competent Christopher gather) of the sample needed. But back to Bishkek ... There is a need to send the collected material to a Polish research. In fact, we are told, after 10 days from the collection of dust mites which are in the samples, die and immediately subject to the fouling, thus becoming bezwarto Initial materials for science. Full of hope, but also aware that some problems may be, we went to the DHL . Unfortunately, that without approval for exports of land issued by the popular choice Final institute of geology as we do not even dream of sending parcels. On the handling of permits was too late, and beyond that, unfortunately, is too expensive. Well, that Pole is known kombinatorstwa bags packed in the carton to the ground, which tightly zak leiliśmy and udaliśm y to FedEx'u , indicating that we want to send a ... book! Ms. began to ask about the quantity of books, their subject matter and value of shipment. Must eliśmy brag on the spot, but everything went nicely. We had the floor, or the customs officers that the woman unzip the package and it does not happen. In Dushanbe, we checked that the shipment arrived, however, to Poznan!

Besides settling all the issues we ready to venture forth and so d of Tajikistan. We jumped on the road to Osh and enjoy the beautiful views mknęliśmy the first pass - more than 3.5 km above sea level. Transit pulled expired, not bad, but sometimes requiring the reduction to two driveways. Then it started also work on developing a laboratory blackbody, which slowly kondensowało at our outlet pipe and the Transit by leaving behind a cloud of black smoke began to resemble Kamazów ! To Osh the next day we arrived in the evening. We rented an apartment from our old friend who has previously rented room returning from Peak Lenin, bought drinks and started celebrating name days Neither , Ku by and Krzycha which converge at the same time, biting salad, popular with the inhabitants of production) Col ejnego day we went on tour Osh, namely oszskiego bazaar, and I must say I'm disappointed. heard an awful lot about the ba AREA: that the greatest all that you can buy that traditional, etc. Meanwhile, how I feel is much smaller than Tashkensky Chorsu a range of products is far richer: / There remains the possibility, c Jeno hoc theoretical, I have not seen the whole bazaar ... After necessary purchases, including traditional Kyrgyz mes heavy headgear - kalpaków , we went to avtorynok , c gel retrofitting our car in the off-road tire pieces: a and chains, as well as achievements of the past repairs curing before entering Tajikistan. Prepared for the jciekawszą part of our tour, we went to the south. A few dozen kilometers from Osh road has become one big square building Moldova, where the asphalt is not seen a , and if it is in the form of islands on the sea sand. The road passes through high mountains, so to the delight of us all working on perfect black body investi pow ticipants. This route was extremely frustrating for the drivers pr strabismus regard to the need to remain in continuous focus and willingness to fight through. P a few hours we finally reached the road to Sary Tash, located some 40km from the border kirgis co-Tajik, and there the first time we felt that the times are well-equipped petrol stations, or not at all filling stations ran out. The Sarah T ash was just "holy benzyniarnia ," but there was no gasoline. It took us several minutes to translate his wife "benzyniarza" , which then set off just after the fuel that m petrol is not needed, only oil. Then nauczyliś we think about kluczoweg for us the word " saljarka " more widespread than " dizel ." Saljarka the st ation was so dotankowaliśmy machine canisters and marched zalaliśmy iśmy for the night. In Kyrgyzstan last night we spent in the desert that stretches from the foothills of the Pamir. Early in the morning we went to the border. There sleepy customs officer asked, " older group" to talk to gab inetu. It seemed initially that he would extort a bribe, but none of these things! You guys are on the border very little traffic and therefore utilize every opportunity to the will of the n agadać! The tax collector was to have broad horizons and was even well-versed in Polish affairs. He knew indeed that Kaczynski in his youth played in the movie! : DZ other Polish s accent, inquired is that at t am now pre president, Kwasniewski was doing, so why Kaczynski does not like the Russians, it still can be seen in Poland, "Four armored and dog" c s film was also banned for the pronunciation of "pro-Communist, proradziecką ia ntypolską? :) You can see that bus outlines, in the media hostile to the end of our country;) In addition, he asked whether the produce is still Zuk and Nysa :) As UNIFORM inquired about the equipment of the Polish army, etc.) Then the turn checked my knowledge of Kyrgyzstan and in the end, when he worried about what it takes so long, Falcon, he inquired us ur impressions of the visit with a focus on what we did not like - "so that we know what we need to change" - as he said!

Finally, after several additional checks drove the 20-kilometer strip of no man's land "and headed toward the Tajik border guards post. Pamir Highway began in earnest!

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* song at the famous melody that accompanied us during travel in Kyrgyzstan. With other hits away worth mentioning " Zarka was in Bishkek " and " member wszetecznego triumphs."