to Bishkek arrived late wi eczorem. Our first steps were directed to guesthousu where rozstawili Ania, Magda, Cuba and Radek. The first time was for us to see details of our Tranzitozwierza - zr T-Mobile the best impression, although there are voices that Transit not give advice in the Pamirs. But I do not like doom and treats all kinds of obstacles as a challenge and a pleasure, and besides, I've seen the movies and fotach, such as local roads śmigają Kamazy, Moskvich, Volga and Żiguli (ny) ;) In the meantime, however, we played at 
backyard gazebo, talking about our adventures of the time meeting and negotiating with the owners p rzybytku until dawn exchange Our Transit the Land-Rover . Unfortunately, the only effect of neg ocjacji were further detriment of our livers;) Due to visa issues, and neither of Cuba, every few days we had to turn up in Bishkek, which prevented us from accidents the Kyrgyz interior;) However, the time was enough to make even a trip around the lake Issyk-Kul. The road to the lake is quite crowded and that for the sake of the fact that the lake is a popular holiday escapades in the direction of among Kyrgyz, but also Kazakhs and Russians. first night we went off the resort
Cholpon-Ata. We have broken up right on the lakeside in a pretty nice scenery, but the pleasure of camping partially spoiled bunch of drunks we trap / burned Kirgiz, who at any price they wanted us to persuade the common smoking herbs, and generally turned back to us the proverbial guitar. There is, however, that every cloud a silver lining - you guys have with each horse and encouraged rides on it. We used of opportunity! Of course, they did a little trick and they let the horse gallop, while I sat on it:) 
Very nice experience for someone who has already ridden a horse only once and in a add on a little Mongolian pony: P In the end it turned that the Pole is generated in the saddle and the body itself, naturally begins to adapt to the movements of the animal by the characteristic rocking in the saddle (good, now nawlewałem se me what a great Jockey: P) The next day we went east and our aim was Karakol and its surroundings, in particular, the Museum and Memorial Przewalski and former Soviet naval base and in the torpedo factory and Michajłowce Przewalsk Marina. While the entrance to the museum was not a the smallest problem - enough to pay the price haggling, of course, the legitimacy of the ticket WIUT :), is already exploring a more torpedowni driving school, whose masters did not have shown. But in a turn in the first row we went to the former
transhipment in Michajłowce. Could only enter the porous fence, but was discouraged described in the authors' intention cającymi inscriptions like " Do not enter! 100% of the prison! " volleys, etc. Generally, laugh;) there enlisted in the local language of the janitor, what, where and how? found that the highest one in the world war naval base (sic - such as shall be determined in some sources) - 1608m above sea level - is still running and is under the control of Russian seamen! Therefore, enter on its site can not. So we asked how the case is the former production plant t orped in Michajłowce. It turned out that the establishment has not been and is still releasing torpedoes:) Department had to be guarded by the FSB. Niezrażeni but we went to the factory and decided to conduct a frontal assault;) with adzwoniliśmy to the base, and we said that we wanted to visit the factory and Soviet naval boats moored at the wharf. was called a batch, but this was not to be fooled, that we " miestnyje " and firmly persisted in her that the plant is an object of strategic significance and come to him impossible. He suggested, however, that the next day is willing to substitute a of the vessels (with an appropriate salary, of course) to undergo a course on Lake Issyk Kul. 
frontal view of the failure of the attack suggested getting an object from the enemy's enemy - namely, passage paid for at in the section of the beach to the base, which is not met with understanding on the part of my companions;) so we moved further toward Bishkek, closing loop around the Issyk Kul from the south. Overnight spent at the lake grillując disposable grills bought from a friend Rutkowski WCZ eśniej beef and Kyrgyz sipping wine brand " Czjornyje glaza ." Unfortunately the meat unless pałucziłos' not quite dopieczone, because the next day I had the guts twist, that little head! 
attraction next morning, which we passed in the majority of n a ride to Bishkek was a salt lake Shor Col. Water salinity was high enough that you could easily lie down on the water surface and just enjoy a state of " levitation." Directions to the lake will not vein, however, entirely clear and a little chance we got there - so you'll need to be vigilant and ask locals! Also the access road itself is in a state
miserable, and after rains may be to get to the place only 4WD. Well, the biggest hit: the lake is private, so for the opportunity to swim in it and even a few who only need to pay him! After arriving to Bishkek, the Falcons went to the Russian embassy. After lodging the application decided to move to the mountains located near Bishkek, and specifically in Alamedin Canyon. We pitched camp and we thought that the next day to go upstream. Eventually, they decided to take this step only Radzim the Falcon. Jasper wanted to rest, but I still kept after grilling;) While the guys walked, we took
the tanning, reading, and drying the tent (unfortunately our Marabou slightly stale: /). addition we took advantage of the invitation of local Russians, who came with their families for a picnic. When the men celebrated their wives and children to walk far, under the guise of preparation of the meal, took up the consumption of liquor and soft drugs : P inviting us to share in this niecnym launder money. Ch łopaki proved to be very nice and when you took longer to Bishkek, have left us their surplus products food, mess kit and two have already finished dishes! awaited us the next day and the last recorded re ia already visit in Bishkek, associated with the receipt of visas by Ania and Cuba, as we used in addition to visits to museums Bishkek. Peculiar national museum turned out to people, by the fact that the two floors it has, the first is entirely devoted to Leniowi! You are brought you convince as the fate of the Leader of the Revolution inextricably intertwined, perhaps imperceptible in normal life, with the fate of a node of the Kyrgyz people! ;) also amazing atmosphere create frescoes on the ceilings of the museum. Hit is Teuton
wielding a sword from blood ubroczony image of a swastika on the handle, the raging bull rushing przyobleczonym in a necklace of human skulls! And against him is dressed in white robes, a virgin (as I do not really know if a virgin - the more that is an allegory Matuszki, Matuszki Rassiji , but let it be: P), also with a sword in his hand. Ahhh poetry! The second f ajny fr ECN is Reagan in a cowboy disguise a ride on a rocket Pershing ! 
Another interesting "sight" is located as a memorial museum, but it's not about a monument to Vladimir Ilijcza, because they do not excite me anymore, as a few years ago, but a monument-the Order of Lenin, who received Kyrgyz S RR probably in the year 1956 for excellent results it has achieved in the economic field, and which are listed on the commemorative plaque. For example, you can sparkle harvest 321,466 quintals of wheat, 34,893 tonnes of beef, etc.: P (Unfortunately, I shoot with these numbers, because the picture somewhere monument wcięło: () But it was a masterpiece and a gem, which enough! Subsequently udaliśm y to the Museum - House of Michael Frunze, the Bolshevik general, who came to Bishkek (then Piszpeku) and after the October Revolution to the Communist conquest of Central Asia. In Kyrgyzstan, the status is still a hero. There is nothing to be surprised - if he was not of the Soviet Union, Kyrgyzstan is today would have been much less developed. In the end the Soviet Union and later Russia modernized countries of the region, hence the nostalgia for the old times is here greater than, for example in Armenia and Georgia, not to mention Europe's former republics! 
important part of your stay in Bishkek was ysłanie the Polish samples collected along the way land and gówienek Krowica h. As co passed, an important theme of our trip was exegi monumentum . Namely, Jasper, as a naturalist by avocation, has been assisting the Department of Biology, Adam Mickiewicz University in collecting samples of soil, to examine for the presence of new species of mites . Researchers at the University accepted the offer with joy, and so armed with bags of strings on the whole Our than from gathered (and mostly competent Christopher gather) of the sample needed. But back to Bishkek ...
There is a need to send the collected material to a Polish research. In fact, we are told, after 10 days from the collection of dust mites which are in the samples, die and immediately subject to the fouling, thus becoming bezwarto Initial materials for science. Full of hope, but also aware that some problems may be, we went to the DHL . Unfortunately, that without approval for exports of land issued by the popular choice Final institute of geology as we do not even dream of sending parcels. On the handling of permits was too late, and beyond that, unfortunately, is too expensive. Well, that Pole is known kombinatorstwa bags packed in the carton to the ground, which tightly zak leiliśmy and udaliśm y to FedEx'u , indicating that we want to send a ... book! Ms. began to ask about the quantity of books, their subject matter and value of shipment. Must eliśmy brag on the spot, but everything went nicely. We had the floor, or the customs officers that the woman unzip the package and it does not happen. In Dushanbe, we checked that the shipment arrived, however, to Poznan! 
Besides settling all the issues we ready to venture forth and so d of Tajikistan. We jumped on the road to Osh and enjoy the beautiful views mknęliśmy the first pass - more than 3.5 km above sea level. Transit pulled expired, not bad, but sometimes requiring the reduction to two driveways. Then it started also work on developing a laboratory blackbody, which slowly kondensowało at our outlet pipe and the Transit by leaving behind a cloud of black smoke began to resemble 
Kamazów ! To Osh the next day we arrived in the evening. We rented an apartment from our old friend who has previously rented room returning from Peak Lenin, bought drinks and started celebrating name days Neither , Ku by and Krzycha which converge at the same time, biting salad, popular with the inhabitants of production) Col ejnego day we went on tour Osh, namely oszskiego bazaar, and I must say I'm disappointed. heard an awful lot about the ba AREA: that the greatest all that you can buy that 
traditional, etc. Meanwhile, how I feel is much smaller than Tashkensky Chorsu a range of products is far richer: / There remains the possibility, c Jeno hoc theoretical, I have not seen the whole bazaar ... After necessary purchases, including traditional Kyrgyz mes heavy headgear - kalpaków , we went to avtorynok , c gel retrofitting our car in the off-road tire pieces: a and chains, as well as achievements of the past repairs curing before entering Tajikistan. Prepared for the jciekawszą part of our tour, we went to the south. A few dozen kilometers from Osh road has become one big square building Moldova, where the asphalt is not 
seen a , and if it is in the form of islands on the sea sand. The road passes through high mountains, so to the delight of us all working on perfect black body investi pow ticipants. This route was extremely frustrating for the drivers pr strabismus regard to the need to remain in continuous focus and willingness to fight through. P a few hours we finally reached the road to Sary Tash, located some 40km from the border kirgis co-Tajik, and there the first time we felt that the times are well-equipped petrol stations, or not at all filling stations ran out. The Sarah T ash was just "holy benzyniarnia ," but there was no gasoline. It took us several minutes to translate his wife "benzyniarza" , which then set off just after the fuel that m petrol is not needed, only oil. Then 
nauczyliś we think about kluczoweg for us the word " saljarka " more widespread than " dizel ." Saljarka the st ation was so dotankowaliśmy machine canisters and marched zalaliśmy iśmy for the night. In Kyrgyzstan last night we spent in the desert that stretches from the foothills of the Pamir. Early in the morning we went to the border. There sleepy customs officer asked, " older group" to talk to gab inetu. It seemed initially that he would extort a bribe, but none of these things! You guys are on the border very little traffic and therefore utilize every opportunity to the will of the n agadać! The tax collector was to have broad horizons and was even well-versed in Polish affairs. He knew indeed that Kaczynski in his youth played in the movie! : DZ other Polish 
s accent, inquired is that at t am now pre president, Kwasniewski was doing, so why Kaczynski does not like the Russians, it still can be seen in Poland, "Four armored and dog" c s film was also banned for the pronunciation of "pro-Communist, proradziecką ia ntypolską? :) You can see that bus outlines, in the media hostile to the end of our country;) In addition, he asked whether the produce is still Zuk and Nysa :) As UNIFORM inquired about the equipment of the Polish army, etc.) Then the turn checked my knowledge of Kyrgyzstan and in the end, when he worried about what it takes so long, Falcon, he inquired us ur 
impressions of the visit with a focus on what we did not like - "so that we know what we need to change" - as he said!
Kamazów ! To Osh the next day we arrived in the evening. We rented an apartment from our old friend who has previously rented room returning from Peak Lenin, bought drinks and started celebrating name days Neither , Ku by and Krzycha which converge at the same time, biting salad, popular with the inhabitants of production) Col ejnego day we went on tour Osh, namely oszskiego bazaar, and I must say I'm disappointed. heard an awful lot about the ba AREA: that the greatest all that you can buy that 
traditional, etc. Meanwhile, how I feel is much smaller than Tashkensky Chorsu a range of products is far richer: / There remains the possibility, c Jeno hoc theoretical, I have not seen the whole bazaar ... After necessary purchases, including traditional Kyrgyz mes heavy headgear - kalpaków , we went to avtorynok , c gel retrofitting our car in the off-road tire pieces: a and chains, as well as achievements of the past repairs curing before entering Tajikistan. Prepared for the jciekawszą part of our tour, we went to the south. A few dozen kilometers from Osh road has become one big square building Moldova, where the asphalt is not 
seen a , and if it is in the form of islands on the sea sand. The road passes through high mountains, so to the delight of us all working on perfect black body investi pow ticipants. This route was extremely frustrating for the drivers pr strabismus regard to the need to remain in continuous focus and willingness to fight through. P a few hours we finally reached the road to Sary Tash, located some 40km from the border kirgis co-Tajik, and there the first time we felt that the times are well-equipped petrol stations, or not at all filling stations ran out. The Sarah T ash was just "holy benzyniarnia ," but there was no gasoline. It took us several minutes to translate his wife "benzyniarza" , which then set off just after the fuel that m petrol is not needed, only oil. Then 
nauczyliś we think about kluczoweg for us the word " saljarka " more widespread than " dizel ." Saljarka the st ation was so dotankowaliśmy machine canisters and marched zalaliśmy iśmy for the night. In Kyrgyzstan last night we spent in the desert that stretches from the foothills of the Pamir. Early in the morning we went to the border. There sleepy customs officer asked, " older group" to talk to gab inetu. It seemed initially that he would extort a bribe, but none of these things! You guys are on the border very little traffic and therefore utilize every opportunity to the will of the n agadać! The tax collector was to have broad horizons and was even well-versed in Polish affairs. He knew indeed that Kaczynski in his youth played in the movie! : DZ other Polish 
s accent, inquired is that at t am now pre president, Kwasniewski was doing, so why Kaczynski does not like the Russians, it still can be seen in Poland, "Four armored and dog" c s film was also banned for the pronunciation of "pro-Communist, proradziecką ia ntypolską? :) You can see that bus outlines, in the media hostile to the end of our country;) In addition, he asked whether the produce is still Zuk and Nysa :) As UNIFORM inquired about the equipment of the Polish army, etc.) Then the turn checked my knowledge of Kyrgyzstan and in the end, when he worried about what it takes so long, Falcon, he inquired us ur 
impressions of the visit with a focus on what we did not like - "so that we know what we need to change" - as he said! Finally, after several additional checks drove the 20-kilometer strip of no man's land "and headed toward the Tajik border guards post. Pamir Highway began in earnest!
* song at the famous melody that accompanied us during travel in Kyrgyzstan. With other hits away worth mentioning " Zarka was in Bishkek " and " member wszetecznego triumphs."
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