Our journey began on June 27 in the morning ... But before that there's been several weeks' preparation. " Written in quotation marks because it was a, j ak yet, visit the largest Moonlighting in my story, which, taking account of the seriousness of the assumed MENT purpose of our trip (especially Lenin Peak) , fill us m n e pretty large concerns. These preparations for helter-skelter arose primarily from the need to catch up in college after całosemestralnej absence and above all the need to nap work Isania Degree j WIUT , which turned out to be not so easy (about sedately round pro c es picking and develop SOURCE odel and writing work took me a month - perhaps in all not bad: P). In the meantime it was necessary to gather the equipment needed n and Lenin Peak, which was not an easy task, because the equipment had to choose a suitable rel ation as COMPONENTS d prices, which require some discernment. Fortunately, he devoted himself to issues of hardware and Chris I trusted him on this matter completely. The same was true with the collection of information about the Mountains with, the conditions where p anujących, back mountaineering etc. I sk drunk on a arranging p ermitu (and on this occasion Note: Multi-seeking info recognized that competitiveness on P Iku natykaliśmy to mention that permit is required, but no one on the spot does not work and it is from this perspective, unnecessary expense. These assertions, I must acknowledge - in fact no one in control on the fact that permitu ! If someone wanted to develop, however, this document is given about a bureau that we brokered: Dostuck-Trekking ). When earlier in yjazdach always had a few days off to think packing your backpack, do the last shopping, etc. This time such luxury was not me d any, so thought that something An important ego has not taken or not packed a little bit bothered me.
Nawal works was so great that the on Friday night, so Bote (26/27 June) till four o'clock in the morning still working on the cp blunt m to work magic sterskiej (this time, that the wschodo). That the latter four in the morning was not the only e exception - throughout June as tested was ...;) At eight o'clock already sat in the train Słupca relationships - Poznan. In Poznan, Chris joined me and we went to the castle of Krak the farewell party, Alice and Andrew. Adopted the is entertained in aka demiku AGH Gabrys and then we went to the Middle Pub, home of the Travelers Club on farewell libation. It was great to meet again familiar faces travel. Of course, not wasting the time we began immediately to destroy our livers, which somehow always kinda makes perfect long Poles conversation y (sorrki Space for these zak ups at Zabka, but understand the poor student, except that it Gabrys of Pillows forced me - after all, normally I do not drink alcohol;). The event lasted until dawn, then slowly walk to go to places an overnight stay. Although the return was light, pleasant and totally were evidenced ny in memory, it will be later them are shrouded in ethereal mist. Woke up in the hallway akademikowym, actually, according to a description of Krzycha in three different rooms - toilet, corridor and main hallway m. View was so peculiar, that, again according to the relationship Kristofer, surrounded me with the rank iem " wreath of solid b ywalców akademikowych, nodding with recognition heads. " Somehow there to the south we could grasp and went to the station to take the train to Kiev.
Travel
was filled with a headache, "generally bad m -being ", and sleeping. Anyway, pretty fast and - objectively speaking - comfortably reached the capital of Ukraine. Kiev Standard breakfasts ow przydworcowym Mac, and ride to the airport. There beer and repackaging of backpacks, including the assumption of Koflachów leg, which gave rise to astonishment and laughter of other travelers. , especially for the landing on Szeremietiewie and further to the Frunze (ie: Bishkek)! Airport
them. Manasa attachment our training centers unusual views, which, however much we hoped for. The largest air base U.S. Air Force in this part of my and the world of e n of awiodła, and They presented transports in even rows, with garden mnymi C-5 Galaxy (if I'm wrong) , did considerable experience. Unfortunately, an attempt to photograph these objects will lay a thwarted by alert airport staff. Thus, the only picture is just-what. When p rzylocie the location was that the crew X-Team , with whom we have an appointment at least shared access to base cam pu not at all flew from Warsaw. So we came łatwić transport yourself, starting with the necessity of higher spending than originally planned .
The main shopping place in Bishkek, ruszyliśm y to Osh. The route to Osh is beautiful - pass through four mountain passes and one long (nearly 3-mile) tunnel dug by zeks which, being deprived of ventilation, all j est smoky burn us. This was indeed the cause of several accidents already, when a car accident and suffered zatarasował tunnel and another car roared into its interior - driver Kamazów are not obviously in the habit of excluding czać kindred kopcących s ch ilników, not even meet the standards E uro 0 - particularly in the height of ch. Effect - the death of a dozen or even zaczadzenia several dozen people. Oh, " typical single story, 
Kyrgyz drivers Kamazów ( Tribute to MotoSyberi a ;)) ... She is a very neat way done, and ridden mostly by Mercedes (unless it most popular car in Kyrgyzstan OPERATIONS)! spent the night with the family of our driver, the near oszskiego ko bazaar (which, even if we did not know.) The next day we moved to another place to the man, who worked on completing the transport to the base of the peak. We spent all day in total, with two Spaniards, who also chose the peak, a pleasant time bulderowaniem Zila-131. It turned out that the settlement of motor transport out of the question, but a lot of money.
Paradoxically eye cheaper alternative attachments to fly a helicopter. In the evening arrived, giving possession terrible name, the manager of one of the camps Glade Leaching - L ena Kalashnikov with a group of military pilots. She told us that the opening will be next dn ia am a pleasure will cost us $ 90. morning we set off car em to b ase military, where we parked the helicopter. Then our pilot - Afganiec amused me by " Wiertaljot 'Staite, slava God, not ukrali! . " Loaded machine, the foty pyknęliśmy in the cabin and went to the clearing Achi k Tash . The flight was quite short, because it lasted about an hour, what an incredibly k ontrastuje of time em, which overcomes This same episode is going Kamaz ;)
Upon arrival at Glade, unnecessary junk left camp in e company Pamir Expeditions, of which more further, and we went a bit higher, at the end of the clearing, where we pitched our camp. Time was young, so we headed up towards the Pass Travelers. Unfortunately, we did not have any detailed maps, but not the best quality schemes and it is difficult for us b yl initially recognize the surround position. Since b yliśmy a few days before the season, the Mount PRA ktycznie than whom he had been (the first camp just install). We did not want to risk too much, not knowing the trail and not knowing what can be expected to continue, so we waited until someone wipe
tell us a little way. Kolejneg a day in the morning it appeared that logs in. is covered with snow - a bit of a podminowało us, because it became clear that the first day of the camp did not get. M imo that snow was a lot of (ulepiliśmy even afraid Wana;)), this week dropped to the extent that it became possible to further output reconnaissance up. reached by basketball Travelers Pass, but it had to sz ybko evacuate, b about the weather began to deteriorate. The next day is a replay of entertainment - morning greeted us several centimeters of snow. Another night on the Leaching ? I think that our blood on ter and flooded! When the snow in the afternoon we went to let pass with the intention of sleeping on it. Along the way, we met the first Polish team : Beata, mayor and Sebastian 
and a group of Ivano-Frankivsk with whom spotykaliśm y later several times. The next morning he showed us the full glory of Spades. Honestly to me he did a great impression - Bydlątka joke "- I thought - and this terribly far away. It occurred to me then that is sure to enter the hill was easy will not. As the weather was nice we decided to move to J ed Ynk and . The route is not especially difficult, but quite long and, therefore, when the dot arliśmy in place, it felt light zmechacenie. 
Single was then still in its infancy - individual camps just instalowały. The whole was covered with snow, which, as we explained provides exceptions to the norm about this time of year. It turned out that 2009 was a record year in terms of snow in the region. Local staff invited us to normal food. Already p three days of eating human lyophilisates age really in the mood for szurpę , biting the bread and egg salad;) The next 
day turned out that we feel very well and acclimatized without problems. So we decided to go a bit higher - at some 4,700 m above sea level and go to the wall, which oc hrzc iliśmy " COMPONENTS Ana crying." This is one of the many references to archetypal Semitic people who accompanied us on the road. This stemmed from the fact that all of us a well-known climber all equipment failures zwalał attributed "universal conspiracy of Jewish-gay." Listening to it age man wondered why he was not born a Jew- homosexual - would like to One can make the words of that climber, a real impact on the course of all events ch. : P What is it me ...? Oh, we went to the "wall of tears." Of course, in the light - handles on the legs, pick a paw harness ass Heja oi! It seemed that will be easy and yet very quickly became clear that " wozducha not chwatajet '" and I felt like all the hard zipiące Kamazy on mountain roads ... Led wośmy came to the "wall of tears" and thought that the next day you will beat this same route, carrying 25 kilos on my back scared ... And there are also gaps need to cross that slow down the march and tired "mentally") We, of course, the rope, walk on the volatile but not a great pleasure, I plata rope under the feet and besides tr tooth to go for their full over the pace, without great opportunities for individual, very short stops ... Therefore, what have we done? We walked without a rope! ;)
overcame a gap in the proverbial Pole pet and so, in this case, jumping: P was doing well for us even to the time, g dy Kristofer on Civil Niu after the jump across a gap collapsed This was the thigh. Then, however, we decided to tie the first time YIW total fine, because I, as a jumping also ran the second leg in a place that seemed to be safe. Quite tired, we returned to camp and abraliśmy for boiling water for another day in which we wanted to move to obo zu second. Our wymęczenie translated the impact of the removal and no trekking poles ... next day we woke up at dawn, packed the remains of junk, tent and went swiftly to the front. Our escapade ended j ednak to live with the frozen quickly at the first river. Chris beat it without problems say, while I, walking on the Jeg of footsteps, with both legs collapsed. Water in the number of audio iach substantial overflowed to the interior ętrza boots, which meant for us all day forced halt. We approached even a piece of the second part of the camp and we put a tent. It turned out that he was not at all unlucky day for the Polish team - the aforementioned Jozek burned themselves are momenta is boiling water and it so seriously that he went down the skin: (
Unfortunately
the next day it was given to us y sew because syfną weather. Slowly we began to bounce stupid, but can not be otherwise, when half of the game cards in War and the second half boiled water for lunch and a thermos s: P The hero of our story Simon became a German who I was enchanted set up their own church mow: P Apparently, he proclaimed himself the incarnation of Christ ... man has a fantasy: PW moments of freedom MENT we argued about the superiority of the donation urine at the court of (option, which I fiercely defended ) on the piss in a bottle (optional csc ysztofowa, tried on Elbrus and fiercely defended since then;)). I think Chris, however, scored a goal for the own goal when it happened to a little accident while putting up a physiological function in accordance with their own convictions (more above this point in the video: P).
The next day we could not go at dawn, as the weather does not dopisywała. So we set off rather late - around 9 am. D at the moment approach under the "weeping wall " even went well. But after it crossed the drama began. We moved a series of 100 steps (after 50), doing after each "hundred" rest of ten EC deep breaths and for that, every 250 steps, we stopped for 10 minutes seated rest. The way we went very reluctantly. Backpack gravitated mercilessly.
Ultimately Twos at 5300 m above sea level, access to aliśmy after 9.5 hours going into the state of goodies Tired. The weather is not conducive to ning, it was quite cold and the wind was blowing, and this snow. Digging into the tent platform took a small half hour ii after this time, we could finally give the "relaxation" or boiling water, eat Niu and sleeping. The second camp would then still quite empty - including perhaps some 8 namio Tov, including only 2 / 3 occupied. The next day, after a long sleep we went on a reconnaissance and after acclimatization ę toward Peak Razdelnej. Initially, you need to overcome quite steep, and le fun approach to reach the ridge ridge and then move 
Peak wall. There he met the first time Oslawa ionych Brazilians who came to the peak earlier than us and they wanted to be his first of the year winners. In addition to this planned to get back in this season's four remaining siedmiotysięczniki the former Soviet Union and thus complete the " Snow Bars " ! Brazilians Cutting down in the snow the way to the top of Peak Razdelnej, k hich would win the next day. They offered us a common output the next day at night, but when we are Wake Zili about 3 am, and then every hour, the weather was bad - a strong wind was blowing and pouring snow. It seemed to us that the Brazilians did not move. this time, when we were about 9 of wounds going from camp to another with the intention of coming to Troika, the far wall of the Peak Razdelnej we saw three figures: two Brazilians and their porter who, while strong winds and the powdery snow , slowly Drepano waist up. Although we were very far away from them (they do look like three black dots , sometimes merging into one great on a white background), then one could clearly sense the struggle they are under way at the moment of the Bogo-Lenin . When we arrived two / three hours later the slope, which saw the Brazilians, following their footsteps was nothing. Jasper started climbing, but after half an hour when suddenly walked across a piece of 300-meter high walls, we decided that we need to plant beat the slopes and go, when the weather improves. next day, night and morning were hopeless,
no chance to exit. So we spent the whole day in a tent. At some point, however, we heard voices outside, which somehow managed to break through the noise of the wind. Wychyliliśmy head - the Brazilians returned to Twos, staggering from exhaustion. It turned out that decided to forgive you Pik Lenin and keep going. Grief We boys did, because it was obvious that they had before the włażenia heart and great determination and that the decision to abandon them probably did not come easily. The next day we went some hours y 10, where the floor szkę be cleared. But we started to swell up pretty quickly - again the signs gave a heavy backpacks. With the help in paving the future, however, Pierrick and Valerie, which if not met yet:) After we got tedious podłażeniu finally Razdelnej Peak (6,149 m) and we went 100 meters down in the direction of Lenin, to break up the pass. Znowuż entrenchment tent took a long time. They were with us two more teams, but both intended to be only n oc and in the morning to go back to Twos. We afford such luxury was not. We knew that we're running out food and gasoline. But we were not the case that the situation was much worse. Gasoline had the eye for three pots of water (about 4.5 liters) and chow per meal - but you have to prepare on the basis of boiling water: / Postanowiliśm y, that day can not afford the luxury of eating and that f the weather allows, the next day we go to the top of the desperation and despair, counting on the fact that the chances are slim. Unfortunately, the night the weather was bad and nothing heralded improvement.
But when it became clear we decided to move. Opportunities for input was no longer any, but somewhere out there a glimmer of hope and naive consciousness SC, that happened to this k away, do not let go without a permit after DJs photos last attempt. Go! It is devilishly hard. So far, all my equipment are checked brought you 100%, always I was warm enough, but this time it badly. We walk along the ridge, strong wind and, besides, is very frosty, the sky cloudless. After a while it gets more and more uncomfortable, because I start to lose feeling in my fingers - I'm trying to move them , but it gives little moment ... I'm fighting with each other, but I make a decision - go back to the tent. Top will not run away. Jasper says he will give more advice and decides to move, I just seem to the nearest summit - an approach 45minut up. In fact, Kristofer decided to fight for Lenin himself. But he has no luck - soon pulls about 10 meters from the Lawi on, and also decides to let go. When he returns to the tent is still przemarznięty - while I sit in a thin shirt and bare feet , he's not taking off anoraks are packaged in a sleeping bag (which probably is not the quickest way to warm up, but when you are tired man is not the end rational;)). After two hours, when Jasper comes to himself, decides to we go back to Twos . Already made some clouds appear, which means that visibility is not very large. We try to go measure the ridge, being aware of the formation of ice dams south side. Snow on post pregnancy nasty down terribly difficult life - we suffer in the waist. Well, however, that we go and we do not think up. After some time we get to Twos. Excited considerable sensation here, because we are the first ones this year, decided to attack (though it is known how it was an attack;)), and were so highly (In my case, some 6250m and 635 0m for Krzycha). 
We are surrounded by a garland of climbers, hungry for any news from the top: How was it? As the weather? Like snow? Well, our ego Zos underpinned by training centers! : P Double at that time already roaring like a town - is really a lot of tents! There are two Polish teams, including the X-Team , or people with whom we had come together, and who have not arrived in time to Kyrgyzstan;) Very cool faith, but unfortunately I do not know at the moment even the details of their stay in the Peak, because it did not return d of Polish, but from what I know, two people came n a peak! Congratulations! next day we start slowly packing. Collapse of litter turns out to be a real art.
borrowed from Paul Marabou froze for good to the ground and stones, which obtoczyliśmy aprons. After an hour of chopping czekanami we are able to forge the aprons from the three sides of the tent. This robot nielekka, because the man hastily gets out of breath at this altitude, the gloves are uncomfortable doing, without gloves - fingers quickly freeze: / After a while we decide on a desperate step - an apron finds his eternal resting place in the snows Bogo-Lenin. Odrąbujemy czekanami przymarznięty apron, wrap in a tent and head down. Initially, try the lines, but continued to look at their feet, to cancers not hurt the rope is too exhausting. We decide to bind the gap or exceed them " Polozwierza ." After less than an hour I get to the double slit. The plan is this: toss sticks and backpacks through the nearest gap, jump and toss Hardware da hopper, and no jump again. Unfortunately, as sometimes happens with the plans, the reality is not always their subordinates. So threw sticks, threw a backpack, and this place is slowly going to stay down and ... disappears in the next slot. My face must have been when nietęga because Doktorantus erupts into thunderous laughter among me how you can easily guess the laugh is not: P 
quickly jump through the first slot, checked the next, and breathe a sigh of relief - backpack came up about 3 meters. As a break at the waist and slide into the slot, pulled out a backpack pickax. During this time the boy walks over to us, greeted us "Hi countrymen! . " My guess is that we recognize the homely 'chicken ... "" I pier ... "and" ch ... . He answers that jump over the gap, instead of the normal transition to cost, he betrayed our origin even faster: P Sebastian, because that guy's name, it turned out that he is an experienced climber and on the occasion of our would-be companion X-Team . Quick offer aid, chronic tape by his harness, I block in the snow crampons and he tapped his head down the gap to the wygramolić and moments with my beloved backpacks: D We spent an hour on a small pogawędkach nice, but you need to move on. We met two more eki dust from the Polish - generally, probably 30% of all persons at the Poles, Lenin! Further descent kinda makes you dupozjazdami what turns up our pace considerably. 
last episode we go to the volatile, because a lot of gaps wytopiło since he left the Single . Upon arrival lunch will put you in the camp and beer! What a taste. But we can not stay awake long, consider the outcome our unsuccessful attempt to show Bogo-Lenin, who is in charge here! next day we hit the base camp'u . The road is long, but very quickly descends. When we come to Travelers Pass Time following meetings. First, the Brazilians, who jammed his teeth and after a rest in the database, they decided to the last time to try to kick Lenin! I'm very impressed then the will to fight and honestly this is not telling anyone wished first ascent this year (this time still remained Pik impenetrable), as to them. As they reached the first to advance to the Troika , they also belonged to the top. Unfortunately I do not know if they finally succeeded. After a while we met with the Spaniards with whom together we flew to Glade Ługowa and who is also the second time tried their luck. In the saddle, and Valerie also met Pierrick actually only Valerie, with whom we had to spend two consecutive days, what else then you do not know.
After reaching Polyana Leaching we went to camp Pamir Expeditions, where we had left behind some of our stuff. Adopted by us like royalty there, taking up delicious dinners ($ 10) and free tea with endless additional portion! Keepers of the same camp: George with his family and employees, it przemili people who helped us a lot and also we had made our stay in the database was very nice. Well, but what is surprising? All are Taszkentczykami! : D We decided to also go to suck ($ 5 - unlimited time), to bathe and laundered and beers bout! :) Getting out of Ahikam Tashu proved to be impossible on that day due to lack of transposition RTU, so we spent the night at the base.
The next day we went Kamaz to Osh. On board were already Valerie and Pierrick. Przesympatyczne young couple who travel around the world, with that this is not just travel. Their goal is to acquire the various peaks of the road. Interested refer to their website and Picasa .
Journey to the Osh took a long time, especially j hen we compare it with what we have achieved the result of flying from Osh to Ahikam Tashu . ;) Is due to the fact that the road passes through high mountains (including the pass at 3500 m asl), the road is in a sorry state and to the many kilometers of ongoing construction work. In Osh stayed in private accommodation (for those interested I've included scans of business cards of our hosts, at the beginning of the Lord, to whom bulderowaliśmy ZIL-a on the way to peak a
then Lady, in which the accommodation arranged for Valerie from Pierrickiem. I highly recommend both places, in both cases, the hosts handled by the transport of Pik Lenin. In Osh briefly visited the bazaar, made up for losses in the corresponding saturation of the body hops podjedliśmy and organized the transport to Bishkek for the next day. The whole next day can be spent in the car to around 22 to reach the capital of Kyrgyzstan, but that's another story: P
God, but the dissertation came out: P
0 comments:
Post a Comment