country is on my mind for a long time. I first heard about him on the occasion of watching a movie in years szczeniackich Fri " Spies like us " with Chevy Chase and Danny Aykroyd. The movie was a scene showing a column of Soviet troops, and accompanied by commentary by the characters that the column was intended to Dushanbe. national bronze but there shown was not at all Tajik - better suited to the mountains wschodniosyberyjskie FOR IN latniej. Since that time, my knowledge of Tajikistan increased and with it direct proportion (and perhaps it was a gain on a logarithmic scale;)) the desire to visit this country. A special attraction was the Pamir Highway , a path of Osh in Kyrgyzstan to Chorogu in this dżykistanie led by the Pamir mountains. The route was established in the years 1931-1934 initially as szutrówka that in the 70s gain the asphalt mat. Add to this border region with Afghanistan, romantic stories about the nineteenth-century Anglo-Russian rivalry for this region of the world and ethnic separateness of Tajikistan against the other Central Asian former Soviet republics. Sufficient argument for a visit to Tajikistan should indeed be the finding that 93% of the country covered by mountains! ;)
Although the name of the Pamir Highway can conclude that we are dealing with a highway or at least the international road with heavy traffic, let us not confuse the evening! Traffic on the route is not that great and you can take a chance stwier device that 50% encountered on the route for vehicles (including bicycles) has as its tourist-poróżników controls. We have only one day met two teams of cyclists (Germany and France), a team of French travelers Citroënami old (not that they were sorry for these cars on the bumpy road;)) and a team of British motorcycles enduro and Defenderze .
After the Soviet collapse highway pamirska ceased to be a greater economic significance. Kyrgyzstan, handlującemu much more intensively with China than not having much to offer its southern neighbor is not dependent on maintaining this section of road outside of Osh to Sary Tash, where the road off to the border with HL Irkeshtam L on the pass. Hence the route from Sary Tash to the limit in Bor Dobo is maintained by the government reportedly ad Tajik. The claim is probably too big a word - it would be better to say that the route in general is not maintained by anyone.
Tajik border guards
sentry will find loves to about 20 km from the Kyrgyz police station and the two are separated Kyzyl-Art Pass (4282m altitude). Are moving to Tajikistan by the Pamir Highway remember to hold the passport of permitu BAR, namely Upper Badachszański Autonomous Region, the territory inhabited by people of Tajikistan pamirską, distinctive language and faith - most of them are Ismaili. Crossing the border car em a few formalities to be completed - except dard state for passport control and customs clearance goes up in transport services and control in " narkotrafik policies", ie the police involved in the fight against drug smuggling. Our visas plate in their "booth" ended in a quite exceptional. Policemen after routine questions zai nteresowani what we are offered tea and snacks made with candy and bread with butter . After further them dnak conversation "backroom" and offered something extra. They took us to the next and kanciapy asked whether we wanted the game.
Even our heads did not come to pray, because I have suffered from hunger. You guys reported that they hunted in goat. beast's head rested in a bag next to it. When we removed the animal's head, Jasper - The chief naturalist groups, made the sign of the animal and said that most likely prepare a meal from the Marco Polo sheep - a species included on the World Red Book . But it was too late to stop the machine cookbook ... Tajikistan greeted us with a beautiful my views, and a surprisingly good way. Devil is not so terrible as he is painted! It turned out that Pamir Highway is mostly covered with asphalt and even not so bad quality. Of course there are sections of gravel and sometimes the road is dotted by mountain streams - a welcome one already on admission. Generally, however, is going up rapidly, and beautiful natural circumstances. When p ewnym time on the right side there is a picturesque, sizable, the highest lake in the Pamir mountains of Kara-Kul. The dominant color is yellow and gray sand and surrounding rocks and deep szafiro you water the color of the lake. Bard zo tasty combination! Another attraction on the route to pass Ak-Baital, the highest in the entire route, measuring 4,655 meters above sea level. They are already the altitude at which the disease can be acquired by altitude. In our group, in a most peculiar height bore Magda, who initially for each crossing barrier 3500 reacted hilarity, part lived cer ontrolowanym assault of laughter:) Then, unfortunately, came the more typical symptoms such as headache and general of TEXTILE-being. And our Transit beautifully handled the heights, however, increasing the fuel burning and smoky, like a locomotive.
In the evening we arrived to Murgabu,
where we wanted to do Registrations - both in OWIRze , as well as the local KGB . But we got in Sunday gels and all offices were closed. But we have obtained information that the registration for the KGB is no longer required wb rew what they write in LP'07. We made a picture so the monument to Lenin, najedliśmy in a small diner, and we went in search saljarki . As I said, gas stations in the traditional word interest in this area will not find. We must therefore go from house to house and ask, with whom you can buy fuel. Immediately zn ajduje is a Joseph ready to do business. J headache est, however, is that because of the loneliness you feel Pamir fuel supply from a distance and the cost is the bar very high ! For diesel we paid as much as in Poland, which is two times more expensive than normal in this region of the world! Murgab remember one however mainly for another reason. Out of town have to cross the first a police station (the first, because more of these stations are dozens!). At the stations does the registration of the vehicle and passengers, which usually consumes little time u, but it is also always a chance for an interesting plant collusion, each cigarette tea and snacks and even food! In Murgabie all it was, but we got the mandate gratisie! It turned out that Tajikistan can not have it in your car dim for nianych windows. Uzasadn of property belonging to this provision is that the windows go dark only terrorists behind the curtains who shoot people! Initially, Mr. policeman ordered us to remove the darkening , what turned out to be impossible, because the film stuck for good. In this case, imposed on us sztraf ! He showed an official rank order, which showed he can m impose a mandate within Somoni 125-200. We negotiated, not to punish our mandate at all, explaining that we were tourists, guests in their country, who already explained in a few days and strive are dim we needed for comfort. The policeman was adamant, but he decided to consult with his chief . This, however, had a heart of stone and said: 200 som they, without discussion. We broke down terribly, because 200 Somoni is the sum of quite a few! We decided to negotiate further. I asked for the phone to the head, hoping that I can somehow convince him to lower the mandate. Initially, we could not at all to him 
get through, but was not a big prob lem - ajranem treated the policeman, bread, mutton:) Head allegedly was in the suck and therefore n e answer. Finally after half an hour pressed green phone and I started AC legally obligated to its p rośby calling for expressions of grace. Tovarisch major But at some point to end cerned. It seemed that the matter is buried, but after a while he rang and ordered get fined 125 Somoni. Good and that! Although the mood for the evening waned a bit for us, but only until such time as the celebrant of the Great Big Etoh he did not treat him with the cheap: beer, wine and champagne. To fully "happiness" no owało only some cheap vodka above;) very next day we wanted to see a chi nski tomb
Gumbaz near the village of Bash. On the way to the village we met a local Kirghiz, who decided to be our guide. After reaching the village, it turned out that we are a few sites, especially the passage through the narrow bridge, which is more pedestrian footbridge and donkeys and not for Transitów ... Luckily, slowly, coordinating each movement succeeded in driving off a bridge does not zlecieć;) Unfortunately, after several minutes of the journey winning streak ended and Transit zarył in muddy blocku. Unfortunately, the mud was so serious that, after several fruitless attempts to take the, the car settled back near the bridge and began to grind mud vain. Initially, we tried to reinforce the ground under the wheel and build a kind of pavement of stone, after which the car could roll. But when we realized that sitting on the bridge are ACKGROUND take other measures. Our situation has raised interest in the village and after a while przyejchał GAZ-66 someone who could haul up from the mud. The driver, however, he did not want to enter into the mud, and there was no other option, because our lobby was relatively short and left us in poverty. In this situation, could do nothing as painfully alternately lift the car float and underlay under the stones. 
In this way the car slowly started to wander up. When the rear axle got out above the plane of the earth, "wybrukowaliśmy" again for the right wheel path. All present were zaprzęgnięcido pulling or pushing the machine and after a while Transit stood on solid ground. However, it was necessary to exchange the wheel, because in the meantime ukruszył valve. After this adventure we went on a tour of the tomb and then yet another. Our guide then took us to his brother on ajran and tea. same day
we pulled the Pamir Hi ghway the route to Ishkashim, ie in the famous valley wachańską. On this occasion, once the other gi in life were given to me to see Afghanistan. I hope that the adage 'third time lucky "will be fulfilled, and the next case of standing on my foot Afghan territory! If you are not yet tr ace was beautiful, it is the description ANIE this road lacks words. The route is dotted just above the border regions Pandż the river, sometimes on the water, sometimes on steep slopes of the mountains some dozen meters above the turbulent water surface. For several kilometers down to the village of Langar do not find hardly any human settlements and the road winds up the mountainside to st arczając amazing views! From Langaru route completely changes its character. One village smoothly passes into another and this in the next. And so, practically until Ishka shim. The route is rich in attractions, every few kilometers there is a fort or fortress and besides, hot springs, a Buddhist stupa, etc. But one by one;) 's first tour was a fortress RATM
- situated on a high ska rpie, on a bend of the river Pandż. The fortress was not much, but the view, which provides is amazing. Especially when a man approaches the very edge of the cliff and under it, some 100 feet below, it will be just a river! After visiting her, we went on an exploration accommodation. As soon it got dark, we decided to break the bank d Pandżu on a piece of flat land. We pitched the tent and proceeded to boil water for dinner, when suddenly we heard some provocation in Tajik, sk ierowane clearly to us. Since none of us understands the Tajik language, took the cheers as the aczepki from local inhabitant this and I even something in Polish I cried. 
Not a minute had passed suddenly enters into our camp, reeling in nogac h, with thy bloody governments and Kalashnikov the guy grabs in uniform. Asks the rossiysk in who we are? At this time, it appears that we are and surrounded by different parties coming to us even three soldiers. All of us rifles at the ready - they had bullets in the chambers! After a brief explanation that we are a tourist I ask myself ódcy dow, what happened to him in the face. Corresponds to a short 'it for you. " The girls quickly deal with a soldier at wearing gauze and hydrogen peroxide. We learn that the Tajik patrol saw the light of our flashlights on the banks of the river and thought that it was Afghan smugglers. 
this hunch cemented among soldiers that they took away our tents for wytaszczane boat to the shore or pontoon y guys turned out to be one very active in order, sat a to us and we have little talk, find out what life is like in Tajikistan, etc. Then the only commander gave the order to unload the guns. The greatest curiosity was at the end, when Jasper asked if we could take a picture with them. Zapozowali guys happy. Cheerful Krzyszt of asked, and praise him for it, or we can take a picture with their kałachami in naszy hand ch ch. And so, gained the first picture in my life, "the chief ": P The next
day we went to twi erdzy Abrashim Qala, which boasts spectacular views across the valley Pandżu! We had the opportunity to visit a traditional pamirski house. Our next objective was the village of Vrang, famed for its Buddhist stupa. On the occasion of the local We guided the boy to the village - the largest atra ction was powered by water from rivers and mill, equipped with an automatic supply jnik grains and in ny without electricity! :) Next, we visited the village Yamg in which above is the house-museum 
nineteenth-century suf ickiego mystic, astronomer, music Wakhaniego Mubarak Kadam. There you can see a typical house with a very sympathetic badachszański luksferami in the roof and a rich collection of musical instruments such as an interesting "guitar"! Another attraction day spa was Bibi Fatima with hot water. Initially, the hot water we terrified, because ystarczająco hot it was outside, but swim was very enjoyable. Same bath is decorated in a clever way and the best thing is a small rocky bay, into which you enter, then immersed in it rkować, extracting stones from the bottom, say 
magic spell in Arabic and then, do not ruin iac stones, to get out without help from the bay - are perform all these Waru nków guarantees wealth and fertility of men to women! So I've been waiting for those millions dularów:) In addition to the sanatorium is located ę best preserved fortress in the valley - Yamchun the twelfth century. Completed the next day exploring the fort - Khakha of the third century BC, the approach to which once again manifested itself krzysztofowy element of self-destruction - Great celebrant climbed after several dozen in fact, not too easy wall without protection! Fortunately, he succeeded, though he says that at some point had the urge to cry your help;) The next day we drove in the end I s hkashim,
which made the necessary purchases and repairs of car tires at akże definitively clarified the issue registrations in OWIRze - it turns out that it is not Poles need it now! Then we headed toward Chorogu, the capital of Upper Badachszanu. Leaving the town you pass next to the bridge, which operates the border crossing with Afghanistan . On the rock, on the other s Pandżu throne was laid with white stone inscription "Welcome to Afghanistan " few kilometers Ishkashimem met us one of the strangest stories of the trip. Across the road stood Lexus and his passengers, young guys, they stopped us asking for help in pushing the car. The car was in fact the front wheels on the shoulder, but was located entirely in the plas zczyźnie road. Visitors told that the machine broke them up. So we helped bring a car onto the asphalt. If den of the boys went to Krzycha to thank him by shaking hands and slipped his hand "special cargo" which proved to be a tiny cube of hashish. Oddly, however, what we realized after a while - the guests immediately after the entrance to the car du, fired him and drove away! This whole situation is released we are brought you later slightly smelly and certainly not accidental, taking ac into account that the same Lexus passed at least twice in Ishkashimie - that is, twice in completely different places and at other times I noticed as we passed Lexus. M not a chance too many, there would be
more Lexusów . The car stood out clearly against the background of cars that house inują in the region, leaving too many fields to guess what Paraje its owners, taking into account close proximity to Afghanistan. about 30km per Ishkashimem is another spa, whose name, unfortunately, now forgotten, and supposedly that is the miraculous water, c a cure for the eye. Especially recommended to me - to immerse the head and open your eyes under water, but after DDAC the wonderful properties of water. After these baths, my eyesight is certainly not improved and the risk of bringing together the fungus grew:) Despite this, I recommend swimming in the sanatoria um! :) Much larger resort st them a bit further sanatorium located in Garam Chashma,
that offers bathing in the hot "egg water") sludge from the bottom of the pool works well on hair follicles. Or so we have to wma blow after it all began to belabor this Błocki;) In the evening we managed to reach the Chorogu. The city is doing a really good impression. Even though we stayed there only a moment, then all who liked, because no such a klimacik - beautifully situated, and probably thought too bad. Impressive with the local airport - no wonder that the times of the USSR Aeroflot pilots flying on the route Dushanbe-Chorog, as the only country in addition to salary received for the flights in a risky area!
Jasper That day also appointed its p he first climbing route, which he called "Sabo did not go that way!" :)
spent the night in small village near Rushanu. Residents turned out to be very hospitable, inviting us for tea skr omny refreshments, who really like a little more ucztę owocową :) Kolejnego dnia dotarliśmy do miejscowości Qalakhum. Od tego czasu droga uległa dramatycznemu pogorszeniu, wzrosła również ilość posterunków policyjnych i wojskowych na trasie, które opóźniają podróż przez koniecz ność rejestrowania się za każdym razem. W Qalakhum spotkaliśmy też milicjantów-oszustów, którzy wmawiali nam, że krótsza droga do Duszanbe jest zamknięta z powodu zawalonego mostu i należy jechać objazdem przez Kulab. Mieli w tym swój interes, bowiem one of them wanted to go in the direction of Kulab and take it with us. Not us the numbers, Bruner! Guest mus ial to find other suckers ... From that moment we passed the whole day driving in the direction of Dushanbe, interrupted from time to time collect the ground and shooting situations sessions for which the background was mostly destroyed vehicle y armored and mine fields here and there - that is, generally remains of the civil war waged in the years 1992-1997. In the roadside village spent the night, which was varied nightlife police drug raid. Guys checked the passports and told us that we are on an important smuggling route. And this is news to you ...: P
On the next morning greeted us with the most severe ordeal of the river, which previously had. By the way flew quite seriously look giving river. Transit is not very high suspended, so there were concerns that the council is not a lady.
The more that the bank has already smashed Lada Samara and her driver, who on p oprzedniego advice they gave and now begging everyone I meet " kamazowców " of towed to the nearest village. Fortunately, the Falcon has proved to be a sixth sense and felt all the underwater obstacles, conducting Tranzitozwierza to the other side nietkn iętego! The main attraction of the day was to be a firewall nurecka - that is the highest TV tower in the world - a whole has a height of 300 meters. Unfortunately we could not even get requests to Wed stomach hydroelectric power plant, or on top of the dam and all the men Rahmon, Medvedev, Karimov and Nazarbayev, who appointed himself near the summit. We were hoping that, although on this occasion will 
m data to meet / see prezyde ntów under the rules according to which for three years each year we managed to see a holiday visit any of the heads of states. Lucky we were very close when going from a diver to Dushanbe when transferring oil from the canister to Baku, we passed the presidential column for the tone. Unfortunately, This column was once set only for zmyłki - because the tinted windows could have been, however, dos 
rub that he ochody go empty: / I wish ... In the evening we arrived to the capital country. The first thing, which it took was to send the Polish land. Unfortunately, repeated a ditty of Bishkek - the institute of geology without a license to export one of our ground shipping is not celebrated. Despite the late afternoon hours (and it was a Friday) we went to s institute, hoping that maybe someone will still work. We are lucky - he was very sympathetic professor who disarm but ajającą sincerity said that both angle geology is not the land (soil) and that far from cow manure. Same idea can be seen, however, pleased him, especially
when he learned that the land does not meet the test, biologists and engineers but lawyers! He promised to help and appointed us to meet the next day not. In such circumstances, we decided to leave outside of Dushanbe, and specifically to Hissar. spent the night in a small "brick factory." Morning we visited the sights - the fort and the madrassa and pognaliśmy to meet with the professor to Dushanbe. 
According to his words, he had someone waiting for us in the Tajik Academy of Sciences, but after reaching the place, it turned out that nobody knows. But we have to take this opportunity to meet with Polish doctoral student at the academy on a contract. Samples have decided to fail to Tashkent. After visiting the museums of ancient and national headed north - the direction Chodżent. The road is in the overhaul / bu struction, and many of its segments is in a sorry state. The route is also quite a few detours. But when it is picturesque as hell! Simply beautiful trail! And what will be after the renovation! Ulala!
That day we managed to reach the height of Ayni, so that the next move in the direction of Chodżentu. It was a mistake. But we could not know that after driving tens of kilometers, it appears that the Chinese road builders will close for the day, namely from 7 am to 7 pm. I would add only that in place of "lock" We arrived at 9 am: / Vision of ten hours of waiting seemed at first incredible, and not only us - the local people, who got into this trap as well. It seemed that the matter will be to settle some petty gratification of money, but the Chinese have remained steadfast. Safety Means a lot to say in them:) In this situation, there remained nothing else for us, how to relax: reading a book, sleeping, or finally giving up p iciu a beer, kurzeniu and
r ozmowie met at the route Pole - Luke . When he finally let us move on, we did not have the joy. At the same time the road next to the border was great! We stopped for a short tour in Istarawszanie. Thanks to advise those who have already wylatywali next day to the country had really ersatz architectural Uzbekistan. The border crossing at Oybek arrived late at night. We were able to celebrate the Tajik side, avoiding the payment of exit fees, which they told us at entry, as well as bribes, which he persistently demanded the policeman on the first goal. He immediately got to know too, what is this "mutual love" between Tadżykami and Uzbeks. The former warned us that the Uzbeks przetrzepią us at the border for all the times. The latter welcomed us, saying: "I have forsaken wjechaliście Asia and to Europe." I must admit that the Tajiks, however, have much more right:) But that's another story. Nock spent on so-called. "No man's land" because the Uzbeks to open the border until the morning.
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