Uzbekistan trzepandem greeted us with a sharp border. Check-in went very slowly, because each vehicle undergoes a detailed inspection. It consisted of everything from car wytaszczeniu subjected to X-ray and X-ray waves, looking for a drug dog's admissibility into the interior of the vehicle and a thorough review of the machine by border guards. In the case of Tajik citizens' control was extended by loosening the wheel and turn all the chairs to their X-ray (sic). Unfortunately for us at the border of a vehicle entered the Tajik numbers, which significantly lengthened the time of our expectations. When our time came, a little bit worried that the customs officers tell us to Disassemble the wheel and it will be mega-trzepando. Fortunately, such "pleasure" offered only Tadżykom. We ordered "only" amount to all the junk - and it was admitted that a lot of German shepherd and the interior of the car. Suspicions aroused, of course, tax collectors earth and cow manure, but they see that it contains nothing suspicious, and small containers in which we collected insects (except land aaa! Because we collected the insects and spiders). Finally, after almost an hour we went in the direction of the revision of Tashkent.
entry into the city itself aroused in me a lot of excitement, because wjeżdżaliśmy Fergona the street, whom I met after moving tram No. 13 and Bus No 93! Fergona the street, the episode of "lower" traversed hundreds of times from dorm - the city center. And indeed, after a while we were in a well-known to me the area: Risowyj bazaar, a prison for women, and of course visible from a distance my dorm! The first steps were directed to the Embassy of Kazakhstan, where the Falcons needed to form a transit visa at the Polish way. Then we went in search of cheap accommodation. Descended to us is that a lot of time. It turned out that the cheap lodging availability only in the famous Hadrze . Famous, he believed to the largest burrow in Tashkent. In fact, the rooms are not so bad, and the bathrooms leave a lot to be desired, how to use not to mention! Virtually "good morning" argued with on duty, which made the impression that work at the place in the framework of a sentence.
evening
but we agreed to meet in Elvis with Alina, Olga, Julia, and Zamir. It was great to revisit favorite bar in Tashkent. Unfortunately, my companions because of fatigue or need for appear at 4 am in the queue for the Kazakh embassy did not wished to continue to accompany me balowaniu, Taszkentczyk consequently, lead to the airport after returning home now Radzimów, had to go alone at night voyages further:) I joined Zamiry Alina and that already played ellipse, and there sat out practice for the 4 am:) next day was hard to pick up something, but somehow I gave to 12 the board;) In the first place we went to my framed Magisterka and then the varsity, where I presented the work. Then, we went to Alina and for a short visit to Tashkent: Madrasah Kulkedasz , a mosque on Friday, the National Museum. In the meantime, the small sample of hits sent to the Polish soil - as it turned out that the package arrived! Since
slowly approached the evening we decided to eat - the best place seemed to be a Russian restaurant Jołki-Mallets . Podjeżdżając the place we got straight into the hands GAIsznika , a policeman drogówki. This przyczepił to our darkened windows to the rear furki. It seemed strange, because after we crossed the road to Tashkent, several police posts and passed a number of militiamen in the capital, and nobody paid attention to us that something is wrong with our car. We started to explain to him that we are leaving virtually from Uzbekistan (which was not true) and why we punish. He had, however, download a film, which no detergent was not possible. Moreover, said that the machine will be "arrested" and taken to the "s ztrafplościadkę ." There, after downloading the films we regulate and mandate of the bill for towing and a police car. We were sure that the guy wants to force a bribe, so we suggested that "the mandate of pay on the spot." He with a smile on his face said that he could not charge such high credentials. We tried again using a magic spell, which usually expresses Page forcing a bribe: "We will give szto diełać? . " The answer was shocking: "be silent and wait, the car goes to the parking lot! The policeman took out his notebook and began to prepare transfer protocol Tranzitozwierza . He called for that purpose, even an accidental passer-by as a witness. We began to ask him pointblank zlitowanie explaining that what he and our problems - the guy said with a disarming smile on his face: "you have a problem, I got the result"! In this situation, there remained nothing but reach for the phone and call the consulate. Unfortunately, my phone was empty, so I walked with him and the charger to the restaurant and asked about connecting to the network. Przedzwoniłem to the consulate and presented the case. As we were informed probably such a provision, which prohibit darkening window does not exist. In addition, advised us to play with GAIsznikiem "spicy" request indicate the number of official business name. Encouraged back into place and I am seeking to show me the rule, which refers to the policeman. He with a smile on his face and removed the code points to any of the articles. Beaten with pantałyku contends that the Code is in Uzbek and do not understand a word. He proposes to stop so a passer, which I can choose myself and asking for a translation of the article. So too do. The truth is brutal: a passer-by Echoed police officer. When GAIsznik away for a while for anyone to stop, the driver accidentally explains, what we had and ask what this policeman could want. The driver admitted that the situation is strange, but once again do no harm to propose an addition to salary. When the policeman comes back to grab a last resort, and ask him to give an official number, name and the names and declare that we will spend not a car without talking to his chief. The policeman says that there is no problem and asked to whom I telephoned, when I went to a restaurant. Do not confess. GAIsznik leaves to one side and the time
calling me to himself. The constant smile on his face gives me the documents of the car and driving away, and Cuba. Strange all this, but I think the guy realized that he contacted the consulate and, if the machine may be prohibited would have to print a lot of additional reports, so he lost interest. Of course, as always, the funniest thing is the justification for this absurd provision on the prohibition of darkening glass: But inside the car could be terrorists! And what if the car has a built-Pake? There, the terrorists can no longer be? BTW I wonder what would have invented, if our car was just a black window and not just a sticker? They asked to replace the windows? : P After this adventure, delicious food in the Jołki-sticks tasted even more;) After saturation of hunger, when we left the restaurant already dusk fell. We left in the direction of Samarkand. We were aware that the Soviet era to Samarkand highway passes over a distance of 20 km by the Kazakh Soviet Socialist Republic, now independent Kazakhstan, so that we knew that we must bounce at some point in the Gulistan.
But riding in the dark proved to be treacherous, and after some time arrived at the station milicyjnego, where the gentlemen told us that there is already a border with Kazakhstan and then proceed without a visa can not be. Get back on the road longer we did not want, the more that it was too late. We asked the policemen, who were very nice, if we can pitch a tent in their post. They agreed and even gave us tea. next day we woke up in the morning,
and took a bath at a police station posililiśmy and continued our journey to Samarkand. We arrived after several hours of driving. In the first row, we went to visit observatory Ulug-backs. Admission was by far too expensive - and I therefore decided not to visit the shrine of that during my previous visit to Samarkand. The very little has been preserved observatory and nearby the museum is more than modest. Another attraction was the mausoleums Timurydów Shah-i-Zinda . (No more writes here about the same monuments, have done this because in an earlier post April ). There he joined us Elbek, Rem, and their colleague from Petersburg. Catalonia in the parking lot we met 
participating in the event Mongol Rally . Know them, among other things went in that the Catalans scratched letter E with their registration numbers. Mongol Rally This event consists of driving a car from Europe to Mongolia and podarowaniu local car. Hundreds participated in the action teams - we do over the next few days we met on our route at least twenty cars marked as participating in the Mongol Rally . Then we went to the bazaar and the mosque and the mausoleum of Bibi-Chanum . Another attraction was the Registan monuments and mausoleum Gur-i-Amir , where complex include remains of Tamerlane. After sightseeing, we went to the entire group for a beer at a pub, where he joined us Zafar. Then we went to the lake, where we spend the night. Unfortunately, the police stopped us on the post and we are told, mikroautobusy such as our Tranzicior can not go on. Translation did not help that our car is registered as a passenger car. Anyway, a good case does not surprise me;) Zafar offered a different place so the river to which way he knew only his cousin. 
place was dismissed by some to Samarkand 30 km and, unfortunately, turned out to be much worse than the promised swimming pool. It's hard, somehow reconciled with this fact, and we gave up the pleasures of a typical evening for the nature of such circumstances. After some time, Jasper began Alina prove that all the monuments built by the Poles of Vilnius and the Vilnius is a Polish city. The conclusion of this whole conversation was that the Polish cities are also in Berlin, London, Vienna and Prague! : P The next day we went to Bukhara.
slept almost the entire route, so I do not remember too much except that at the beginning Cuba and conducted approximately every ten miles we were stopped by the police for exceeding the speed, which we unfortunately trzepało his pockets and took up valuable time. Already upset that Anne has ordered a change behind the wheel, and since then there has got no mandate and we stopped only at the fixed stations and even Annette exceeded the speed, and so we got away zawszee;) Bukhara has proved to be for me the most beautiful Uzbek historic city. Landmarks are not really so "odpicowane", and therefore alienated from the surrounding architecture, as in Samarkand. However, are deployed mostly in the old town, which is still inhabited by ordinary people.
gives a climate of greater authenticity of the place - just like in Chiwie, except that where the entire historic area is isolated from the rest of the city defensive wall. Meanwhile, in Bukhara, a city creates a kind of an organism in which monuments smoothly pass into more modern architecture and the neighborhood are not zapaskudzone concrete monsters, such as the Registan samarkandzki . In Bukhara, first visited the Ark - palace of the Emir, who, however, in most is covered with ruins, was not rebuilt after the attack because the Red Army in 1920. Within the palace there are several small museums. Opposite the main entrance was built in 1927 a water tower. The construction is 33 meters and is an excellent vantage point, if you just trust the builder and its restorers;) Next, we went to the center of the square Lyabi Haouz and visited the monuments located in the neighborhood and we went for a meal. Alina,
counting on the fact that it is approaching its last weekend during their stay in Uzbekistan and that God deigns to a know when you are in Uzbekistan, and again, that we may have trouble reaching the Aral Sea, decided to go back to Tashkent by train. She bought her ticket and the odprowadziliśmy minibus. And we decided to visit a synagogue, after which we guided the local rabbi (in total I do not know whether he was a rabbi, but the version that was, however, the more I like it: P), telling the story of the Jews bucharskich. Then we went further into the mosque Kalon, thereby ending the tour of Bukhara. vulcanizer After visiting, we went in the direction of Urgenczu. We decided that in the first place we will go over the Aral Sea is actually a place that was once a lake, or to Mojnaku, but left the archives on the way back. To this end, we had to ride at least until 12 o'clock at night. Holidays spent in the desert, or the circumstances in beautiful nature:)
pocisnęliśmy next day until the very Mojnaku.
And here an important remark: the Nukus no longer nowhere on gas stations, so the need for fuel to take care earlier. We have not done so and we got Mojnaku on fumes, hoping that something will be to settle on the spot. The only gas station pumps, however, was empty. In this seemingly dramatic situation, after several unsuccessful attempts to settle such as gasoline the bus driver, but we managed to do great. The local boy took us to a state farm, indeed kolkhoz - did not ask about the ownership relations prevailing there;) - where the other guy he poured us some magic fluid to move the tractors and combine: P Having satisfied hunger Tranzitozwierza could go to the graveyard of ships ... This term defines a symbolic place, a collection of rusty old boats Aral fleet. Boats lie on the former lake bed, which today is only desert. Watchman who guards the junkyard
Mojnaku told the story. I exactly remember the days when the city from all sides was surrounded by the waters of the lake. Even though it is not difficult to imagine seeing the high cliffs, which was once the edge of the tank. Told how built hotels and restaurants, after which there is no trace today, as he commuted to the place of his work, and deal with what most people Mojnaku - work on board fishing vessels and fish processing. He told the shore of the lake in the 60s began to recede, to the late 70s no longer be visible at all from the town and like the early 80s given peace of mind any attempt to dig canals for the boats that could still emerge from Mojnaku the full waters of the lake, away then already a few dozen kilometers. Mojnak Today there are over 150 km from the shore and the village of themselves mired in apathy, caused by economic collapse. Rozpytaliśmy up the possibility of reaching the lake today - the idea of \u200b\u200bcountry in order Tranziciorem "to Krech," the bank would in fact rather flippant:) And perhaps fatal for the sake of any movable pens ... How did we get told the lake is possible, but only local who knows the way and has a good truck. Anyway, we were able to swim in the Aral Sea, "and actually, in such a small roadside pond-bajorku, where we had to share the grazing herd of cattle next : P Satisfied with Visit to scene straight from Fallout'u , we went back with the intention of staging a long Chiwie. Along the way, we met no small attraction: the Nukus we saw standing in the middle of the desert plane! Would not be ourselves if we did not try to come closer. Fortunately, it turned out that it is expensive, and with her sign: "No admission for unauthorized." So we issued the mandate and drove away, the same plane. In addition to the aircraft stood empty buildings and train cars were visible in the distance further buildings and tents. We understood that we got into a kind of special forces training ground. Quick foty and backward! Before
Urgench history repeated itself with fuel. After driving 60km on reserve, in the end we came to a petrol station. Unfortunately, it was only under construction, but they called foremen relief and after a while the Izu rode " benzyniarz " and proposed business. Agreed price and at the time of the next Izu , this time car conveyance, drove two peasant kanistrami! That's how it works in Uzbekistan:)
crossed the pontoon bridge on the Amu-Darya and
arrived to Khiva, where he spent a good few hours, admiring the buildings Itczan Kala. At night we went in the direction of Tashkent. We chose, however inadvertently road, which was in poor condition and to full Witch - usually a tractor, but ZiŁów , with their headlights off ... Amu-Daria crossed on an interesting road-rail bridge, where traffic is stopped for the time its a train journey. When dusk began to fall our eyes appeared a strange glow on the horizon. Initially we thought low that it can be suspended moon. After a few minutes but it turned out that it must be a great fire, as the moon appeared next to the glow. On one of the stations we asked a policeman what a glow on the horizon - he replied that it burns the Turkmen gas pipeline is located some 15 kilometers from where we were. But it turned out that the policeman did not have the best information. After several more minutes of driving - glow appeared in front of our vehicle - so there was already very possible that there is it is in the territory of Turkmenistan, as we drove all the time parallel to the border of that country. After crossing the next road section
there was no doubt that we are dealing with fire, because the glow clearly began to flash. We had a nice ride even tens of kilometers to reach the fire, which proved to be deployed right on our way. The fire was so powerful that we saw him from a distance of almost 100 miles! Burning natural gas, of course, spending a fantastic, rumbling sound. We were unable to determine whether it was a pipeline fire or a natural gas leak, which was set on fire. 
stemmed from the fact that the fire took place in a small basin, which edge approach was not possible. Nay, even closer to a distance of 50 meters was difficult due to the gusts of hot air. Drove about 20 miles from the fire and went to sleep in the desert rozświetlanej gas fire! Another day practically all spent in travel, because we wanted to get out as quickly as possible to Tashkent. Were under the illusion that maybe we can still use the last day for selling a car. The only attraction on the way militias were controls, and a delicious dinner. Antyatrakcjami the heat prevailing in the interior of the car, where he recorded 60 ° C under the windshield, and 40 ° C in the most ventilated area, and the explosion of a tire that did not survive to old age and heat. Until we arrived at about 22nd Tashkent There Hadra had no seats, so they sent us to another shrine. There, however, it turned out that we can not check in because we had no registrations. It turns out that in Uzbekistan should be recorded every three days and after this deadline, no hotel has no right to take the man until he has paid a mandate! However, the guy with the front desk was nice enough that it allowed us to break down their tents on the back of the hotel and park your car in the parking spaces. Up to 3 o'clock in the morning pucowaliśmy our Transit , whereas the planned visit to the car market, the next day. Unfortunately the next day was Monday, and the stock market on Monday did not work: / but decided to try it. We gave in addition to cleaning the car at the car wash, and we went to avtorynok . There, however, all our hopes were dashed. For the sake of the lack of customs matters governed by no one wanted to buy a car. We tried to talk to yet, " marszrutkowcami ," but also out of general interest there was no desire to buy from them. Then we went to the girls to live in order to comprehend. Of course it took a little time. At night we had a plan to go to a restaurant TV tower - is a promise from the beginning of my stay in Tashkent, from January, but still somehow I failed this time also failed ... Restaurant on Monday does not work: (Let's hope that what is delayed, it is not lost .
For dinner we went finally to Sim-Sim - also very cool bars. Then we went to the park, where he joined the Ibrahim and Rem. Around 1 am we had to move to the airport, from where odlatywaliśmy from Christopher to Riga . Thus ended our escapade to Central Asia ... The rest, however, the strength of memories:)
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